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Climbing at Ústecká stěna

12 routes
3–7/7+ grades

Part of Ptačí stěny, Ústecká stěna has 12 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 3 to 7/7+. Routes are listed below with grade, style, and community notes.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Route on sun, Textile belay, Vertical wall.

Rules

Ostříží stěny and the Rájec valley are closed in spring for nesting birds. Check the current dates in the ČHS crag database.

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Parking

50.80620, 14.01701

7-/7
Ústecká stěna
Up the middle of the wall over 3 K directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6
Ústecká stěna
In the left part of the valley wall directly over two bolts/rings to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6-
Ústecká stěna
In the left part of the wall, over the bolt/ring into the crack and via it to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Ústecká stěna
Right of the Valley Crack route to K and by wall directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Ústecká stěna
Right of the 'English Patient' route by wall over three rings to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Ústecká stěna
From the platform at the Northwest edge, right behind the edge (bolt/ring) and along the… Rock Climbing
5
Ústecká stěna
Along the edge over the bolt/ring to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Ústecká stěna
Left of the Valley Crack route by wall and pillar to K. Further by wall into the notch… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Ústecká stěna
Through the middle of the West wall via the crack to its end, right into the chimney and… Rock Climbing
3
Ústecká stěna
Access between Vozová vazba and Ústecká stěna, left by chimney directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Ústecká stěna
Left of the chimney over K directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Ústecká stěna
Right in the S wall by chimney and higher by crack directly to the summit. Rock Climbing

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