Part of Ptačí stěny, Ústecká věž has 15 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 3 to 7+/8-. Routes are listed below with grade, style, and community notes.
Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay.
Rules
OVK: Use magnesium according to sandstone rules, first ascents only with the consent of the administrator.
Nature protection: tower closed from February 23rd to June 30th due to nesting.
Ostříží stěny and the Rájec valley are closed in spring for nesting birds. Check the current dates in the ČHS crag database.
The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.
- Chalk is banned.
- No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
- Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
- Do not alter the rock surface.
- Abseil from the summit rings.
Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.
6+/7-
Zalomená cesta - var. Severní světlo
From the block, further by crack to the hourglass and to K. From there directly to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Malá varianta severovýchodní stěny
From 1st K directly up the wall to the hole of the route "Northeast Wall". Rock Climbing
5
Zalomená cesta
In the left part of the NE wall by crack to the connection point of the block with the… Rock Climbing
6-
Severovýchodní stěna - přímá var
Up the middle of the overhanging NE wall over K directly to 2nd K of the Northeast Wall… Rock Climbing
6-
Severovýchodní stěna
In the right part of the wall by notch to 1st K, traverse left and to 2nd K. By wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Severní cesta
From the fore-summit at the S edge upwards, traverse left behind the edge and by pillar… Rock Climbing
3
Západní cesta
From the fore-summit, traverse to the NW edge of the tower. Overhang to the edge, along… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Co můžeš
At the right valley edge over the roof-like overhang (K), by rib and wall to K of the… Rock Climbing
3
Severní spára
Overhang from the fore-summit into the S crack and by that directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Sluneční stěna
By chimney in the left part of the valley wall to the fore-summit and by wall to K. Over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Stará cesta
From the massive block on the E side of the tower via an edge and a notch to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Údolní cesta
Up the middle of the valley S wall and traverse right to the edge to K. By crack to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Radůza
Through the right part of the valley wall of the massive block over K to its summit. By a… Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Strašná mlátička
Via the route "What you can" to 1st K. Above it, traverse right behind the edge, overhang… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay