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Climbing at Velká plošina Stěn - Božanovský špičák

45 routes
17 areas
2–7/7+ grades

Božanovský Špičák (773 m) is the highest point of the Broumov Walls; this sector of the Velká plošina Stěn has around 45 routes on 17 towers – for example Falešná sedma, Špičák (Koníček), Mamut, Mimčo, Buldog and Vůjtova věž. The climbing is traditional with textile protection and rings; grades from 2 to 7/7+.

Part of Broumov Walls, Velká plošina Stěn - Božanovský špičák has 45 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2 to 7/7+. Explore its 17 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route on sun, Vertical wall.

Rules

- Do not damage nature - do not interfere with vegetation on the rocks and in their surroundings, do not remove stones, wood, soil, etc. from terraces and the surface of the rocks - Use only tourist routes and access paths marked in the permit attachment for access - Do not disturb nesting birds and inform the PLA administration if nesting is detected - Climb only on dry rocks, in daylight, in shoes that do not damage the surface of the rocks - Do not use magnesium - Prohibition of damaging or modifying the surface of the rocks (inappropriate handling of the rope, chopping holds, steps) - Prohibition of using belay devices that damage the rock (wedges, friends) - First ascents and installation of fixed belays only with the prior consent of the PLA administration The permit does not apply to bouldering.

Seasonal climbing ban from 1 January to 30 June. Check the current status in the ČHS crag database.

  • Climb only on designated rocks – closed rocks are marked with prohibition signs.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only).
  • Camping only at campsites.

National nature reserve. On the designated rocks climbing is mostly allowed from 1 July to 31 December. Check the current status in the ČHS crag database.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5
Kamarád
Rock Climbing
5
Kamarád
Rock Climbing
2
Těžítko
From the North up the wall to the block, over the overhang past the chimney and up the… Rock Climbing
3
Orel
From the NW from the edge by stepping over to the balcony, traverse left along the ledge… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Mamut
From the East up the wall over the points and by passage to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Mamut
Up the SW crack and chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Mamut
Up the West chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Mamut
At the right valley edge up the wall (ring) to the ledge. In it traverse left (around the… Rock Climbing
2
Mamut
Up the chimney and crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Pravěká
From the southeastern fore-summit up the wall (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Ještěr
From NW via a crack and a chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Ještěr
From the SE ridge up the steps to the right to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Veverka
From E via a chimney and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Falešná sedma
Up the NW small chimney and right up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Palčák
From the southwest up the slabby wall into a narrow chimney, through it to the balcony,… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Falešná sedma
Through any of the passages into the rock formation below the jammed boulder to the start… Rock Climbing
4
Falešná sedma
From the East via the broken/jagged crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Palčák
From the south up the steps to the NE pillar, overhanging into the wall and with a mantle… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Falešná sedma
Rock Climbing
3
Falešná sedma
Up the SE chimney and crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Falešná sedma
Up the West small chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Falešná sedma
From the South up the chimney to the block and by step-over to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Falešná sedma
Up the North crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Kratochvíle
Rock Climbing
5
Mimčo
Rock Climbing
4
Mimčo
From the SW edge traverse right to the SE edge and along it to the small platform.… Rock Climbing
4
Kratochvíle
Up the SW wall to the saddle and right up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Mimčo
Rock Climbing
4
Mimčo
Up the East wall (below the abseil point) to the summit. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Pravěká
In the left part of the SW wall at the edge (2 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1

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