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Climbing at Velká plošina Stěn - Božanovský špičák

45 routes
17 areas
2–7/7+ grades

Božanovský Špičák (773 m) is the highest point of the Broumov Walls; this sector of the Velká plošina Stěn has around 45 routes on 17 towers – for example Falešná sedma, Špičák (Koníček), Mamut, Mimčo, Buldog and Vůjtova věž. The climbing is traditional with textile protection and rings; grades from 2 to 7/7+.

Part of Broumov Walls, Velká plošina Stěn - Božanovský špičák has 45 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2 to 7/7+. Explore its 17 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route on sun, Vertical wall.

Rules

- Do not damage nature - do not interfere with vegetation on the rocks and in their surroundings, do not remove stones, wood, soil, etc. from terraces and the surface of the rocks - Use only tourist routes and access paths marked in the permit attachment for access - Do not disturb nesting birds and inform the PLA administration if nesting is detected - Climb only on dry rocks, in daylight, in shoes that do not damage the surface of the rocks - Do not use magnesium - Prohibition of damaging or modifying the surface of the rocks (inappropriate handling of the rope, chopping holds, steps) - Prohibition of using belay devices that damage the rock (wedges, friends) - First ascents and installation of fixed belays only with the prior consent of the PLA administration The permit does not apply to bouldering.

Seasonal climbing ban from 1 January to 30 June. Check the current status in the ČHS crag database.

  • Climb only on designated rocks – closed rocks are marked with prohibition signs.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only).
  • Camping only at campsites.

National nature reserve. On the designated rocks climbing is mostly allowed from 1 July to 31 December. Check the current status in the ČHS crag database.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Falešná sedma 8 routes Špičák (Koníček) 7 routes Mamut 5 routes Mimčo 4 routes Buldog 2 routes Kamarád 2 routes Ještěr 2 routes Palčák 2 routes Vůjtova věž 2 routes Pravěká 2 routes Lhotská 2 routes Kratochvíle 2 routes Veverka 1 route Páteční věž 1 route Vesmírná odysea 1 route Orel 1 route Těžítko 1 route
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
5
Vesmírná odysea
In the left part of the eastern wall via a crack and the wall left to a small platform… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
2
Vůjtova věž
From NE from the edges by stepping over into the structured wall and up that to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Vůjtova věž
Left of the western ridge, via a chimney between the tower and the massif up to the large… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Lhotská
From the south up the wall to the pillar and along the eastern ridge (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Lhotská
From W up the wall to the gully, through which to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Buldog
From E up the wall to the N ridge and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Páteční věž
Rock Climbing
4
Buldog
From N to a small platform, by building (up) and along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Špičák (Koníček)
From the 1st ring of route no. 2, traverse left under the overhang in route no. 3 and up… Rock Climbing
5
Špičák (Koníček)
Via route no. 1 to the platform. Traverse right diagonally upwards to the W ridge and via… Rock Climbing
5+
Špičák (Koníček)
Along the E ridge (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Špičák (Koníček)
Along the edge directly to the 1st ring. Rock Climbing
5+
Špičák (Koníček)
In the valley wall via a bent crack to the 1st ring. Along the ledge right, above the… Rock Climbing
5+
Špičák (Koníček)
From the plateau side, up the S wall left into a gully and up the wall right to a… Rock Climbing
6+
Špičák (Koníček)
From NE via a bent crack (ring). Traverse through a notch right to the edge and via a… Rock Climbing

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