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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6
Kouzelník
kl. UIAA 6From the SW, by stemming to the hanging wavy crack & along it to the ring. To… Rock Climbing
4
Kouzelník
kl. UIAA 4From the S, up the chimney into the corner and pinnacle, up the crack to the… Rock Climbing
7
Kouzelník
kl. UIAA 7From the NW gully, up the wall and crack to the ledge and down it past the edge… Rock Climbing
6
Kouzelník
kl. UIAA 6Up the corner in the NE wall to the plateau and up the crack to the ring. Up… Rock Climbing
5+
Polární trůn
kl. UIAA 5+Up the chimney of route No. 2, but below the crack to the left and along it to… Rock Climbing
6
Polární trůn
kl. UIAA 6Start on the E side, to the right of the corner crack. Up the pinnacle to the… Rock Climbing
4
Polární trůn
kl. UIAA 4From the boulder at the S edge, up the crack and small chimney to the terrace.… Rock Climbing
6+
Polární trůn
kl. UIAA 6+From the E, up the overhanging corner crack (ring) to the terrace. To the… Rock Climbing
6
Polární trůn
kl. UIAA 6Between Trůn and Kouzelník, up the chimney and by stemming to the inclined… Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Polární trůn
kl. UIAA Leap 4From the summit of Herink, leap into the SE wall of Polární trůn (Polar… Rock Climbing
5+
Herinek
kl. UIAA 5+Along the small crack to the left to the W edge and along it up the wall (ring… Rock Climbing
4
Herinek
kl. UIAA 4To the block from the hiking trail up the SE wall. Rock Climbing
8-
Polární trůn
kl. UIAA 8-Up the SE wall (2 rings) to the ring of route No. 6 and continue along it to… Rock Climbing
3
Herinek
kl. UIAA 3Along the W edge to the block and up the SW wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Deštivá
From the gully between Deštivá and První, down the ledge and in the NW wall's detachment… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+
Herinek
kl. UIAA 7+From the hiking trail, up the overhanging wall to the ledge and up the wall to… Rock Climbing
7
Herinek
kl. UIAA 7From the NE from the fore-rock by stepping over to an inclined plateau. Along… Rock Climbing
4
První
kl. UIAA 4From the boulder on the n. a. (W) side, up the chimney along the pillar to the… Rock Climbing
6
Deštivá
From the boulder at the W edge, up the SW wall (ring) and corner crack to the ledge. Via… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6-
Deštivá
New route to the ledge. Up the wall to the right past the edge to the ring and along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Deštivá
From the SW (aid) and wall (ring) to the 2nd ring. Traverse the wall to the right past… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Čmelák
kl. UIAA 4Z n. a. in front of the rock wall through a crack to a small ledge on the right… Rock Climbing
6+
První
kl. UIAA 6+In the middle of the valley wall, up the pinnacles to a small ledge. Up the… Rock Climbing
4
První
kl. UIAA 4Wide crack in the SE wall to the plateau. Above the wedged boulder, follow… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Tři trikoty
From the lower south side, up the wall (4 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
2
Posvátný kozel
Via the plateau crack to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Husa
UIAA cl. 4 To the crack directly via the W wall. Rock Climbing
4
Husa
UIAA cl. 4 From the plateau side along the small ledge to the right and via a crack in… Rock Climbing
3
Posvátný kozel
From the valley side, via cracks to the block and wall to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Husa
UIAA cl. 5+ Left of route No. 1 via a crack to the top. Rock Climbing

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