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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

2+
Trio
To the right of the rock arch in the corner onto the blocks and right along the wall to… Rock Climbing
4+
Trio
Rock Climbing
5+
Opat
UIAA 6+ - In the middle of the S niche, via a crack (ring) to the pillars. Via route no.… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Opat
UIAA 7+ - From the S niche, left via a crack (2 rings) to the pillar. Traverse along the… Rock Climbing
4+
Opat
UIAA 5 - From the S niche, right via cracks to the pillars. Via route no. 1 to the top. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Opat
UIAA 7 - Winding crack in the SW face to the ring. Via a crack, wall, and left corner to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Opat
Via the route "Pillar Crack" to the balcony with a pine tree. Directly via a crack and… Rock Climbing
5
Zápasník
UIAA 5+ - Through the crack in the N face to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Gladiátor
UIAA 5 - From the gorge on the SW side via a chimney, a traverse, and in the NW face via… Rock Climbing
5+
Opat
UIAA 6+ - In the right part of the main wall, via a chimney to the balcony. Left via a… Rock Climbing
2+
Opat
UIAA 2 - From the NW, chimneys to the pillars and up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Zápasník
UIAA 5+ - Left of route no. 1 along the wall and left along the edge to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Zápasník
UIAA 3 - Through the crack in the SW face and up the crystals to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Perníková věž
Between the tower and the HENGST chimney to the widening and right through a crack in the… Rock Climbing
6-
Perníková věž
Rock Climbing
3
Tátoš
In the valley face, through the chimney to the pillar and up the face to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Mákula
Through the crack above the hiking trail over 3 rings to the balcony. Further through the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
8+/9-
Perníková věž
Rock Climbing
7/7+
Tátoš
UIAA grade 5+. In the middle of the valley face, through a crack over a platform to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+
Tátoš
UIAA grade 7+. Through the crack in the center of the NE face (ring) to the pillar. Up… Rock Climbing
3
Děvín
To the right of the North Star, a shallow crack and then across slabs to the ridge. Rock Climbing
3
Děvín
Reach out and traverse under the overhang to an overhanging wall, then diagonally right… Rock Climbing
3
Děvín
Over the overhang into the wall, then about 4m upwards, over several overhanging blocks… Rock Climbing
3
Děvín
Start in the lower left part of the S wall. Follow the edge and over the overhang to the… Rock Climbing

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