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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6
Skalní koruna
From the rock block in the Crown Corridor by bridging to the fore-summit below the SE… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
8+/9-
Skalní koruna
By the Royal Route to the fore-summit and through the middle of the southeast face (6… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Skalní koruna
From the hiking trail, by corner in the western edge below the overhang to the 1st bolt… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Skalní koruna
By the Royal Route to the fore-summit. By the right part of the SE face (2 rings) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6
Skalní koruna
From the hiking trail, by chimney to the 1st ring and by crack to the 2nd ring. By crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Krápníková
UIAA Class 6. Left of Krápníky, by crack to a ledge and by other cracks to the ring. Left… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Krápníková
Rock Climbing
7/7+
Skalní koruna
Rock Climbing
7-/7
Ležák
UIAA Class 7. By cracks in the SW face to the ring. By fissure and crack to top. Rock Climbing
4-
Krápníková
UIAA Class 4. Right of the Krápníky formation, by the second crack, chimney and left by… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Krápníková
Rock Climbing
8+/9-
Věž Jardy Berana
Rock Climbing
6-
Věž Jardy Berana
UIAA Class 6. From NE, by chimney to the block. By aid climbing and crack to the ring. … Rock Climbing
6-
Věž Jardy Berana
UIAA Class 6+. In the middle of the W face in a corner, by flake (3 rings) below an… Rock Climbing
6
Žabí princ
Up the SE face of the southern pillar over 2 rings to the notch in the E edge and via… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Věž Jardy Berana
UIAA Class 7+. By route no. 3 to a small platform and by face right to the 1st ring. By… Rock Climbing
4+
Věž Jardy Berana
UIAA Class 5. From N, by chimney, crack (ring) and chimney to the sub-summit. By gully to… Rock Climbing
6
Žabí princ
Rock Climbing
7-/7
Věž Jardy Berana
UIAA Class 7+. Above the 3rd ring, directly by crack over the overhang (4th ring) and by… Rock Climbing
5+
Pinokio
Left of 'LONG NOSE' via a chimney to the pillar, then up the wall right to the 3rd ring… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Pinokio
Up the narrow SE face over 2 rings to the 3rd ring. Left via a gully and a slabby edge to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Kulisa
UIAA 5 At the S corner from the balcony, right via a crack to the pillar. Route No. 1 to… Rock Climbing
2+
Kulisa
UIAA 2 From the NE constriction, left via a chimney to the pillar, then via the wall to… Rock Climbing
8/8+
Dekl
Along the southern edge over bolt, ring, bolt, 2 rings to the top. Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Dekl
UIAA 8- In the left part of the valley wall, via a chimney to the saddle. Right via a… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Dekl
UIAA 7+ From the fore-rock at the S edge of the tower traverse to a ledge and up the wall… Rock Climbing
4-
Veliké Lalulá
Via the SW route to Lvíček into the gorge. Right up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Lvíčata
UIAA 4 Via Route No. 1 to the saddle, then via the wall to the SE summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Lvíčata
UIAA 3 Via cracks to the saddle in the notch between towers. Via a crack and wall to the… Rock Climbing
6-
Lev
From the eastern edge of the pillar diagonally right and via a notch to the 1st ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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