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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6-
Chrámové stěny
UIAA Class 6. To the right of the Koutová spára route, via a wide crack to the pulpit. In… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Chrámové stěny
UIAA Class 6-. From the prominent corner, via the corner crack, chimney, and higher up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Chrámové stěny
UIAA Class 8. Follow the Bumerang route to a shelf, then right along it past the edge and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8+/9-
Chrámové stěny
To the left of the west ridge, up the wall, via a small crack and wall to the 1st ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
?
Chrámové stěny
UIAA Class 9-. Follow the Notre Dame route to the 1st ring. Up the wall along the edge to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
8/8+
Chrámové stěny
Through the center of the SW face (2 rings) into a prominent recess to a shelf. Left up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8/8+
Chrámové stěny
UIAA Class 8+. Follow the Bumerang route to a shelf. Right to the edge to the 1st ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Chrámové stěny
Follow the Tanec s vlky route into a prominent recess to a shelf. Up the wall right to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9/9+
Chrámové stěny
From the gap between the Chrámové walls and Sokolík, via a small crack and wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
4
Chrámové stěny
UIAA Class 4. From the end of 'Chrám' via a chimney to the inner platform. To the right,… Rock Climbing Vertical wall
7/7+
Chrámové stěny
UIAA Class 7+. From the staircase at tower no. 10, via a crack to a ledge and over an… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5+
Sokolík
UIAA Class 5+. From the artificial wall, through the chimney to the ledge and then right… Rock Climbing
7-
Sokolík
UIAA Class 7-. In the SW face, right wall to the ring. (Aid climbing with slings) and… Rock Climbing
5+
Sokolík
UIAA Class 5+. From the 'Chrám' along the edge (ring) to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Sokolík
UIAA Class 5+. From the SW, via the 'sokolíková' crack (2 rings) and a small chimney to… Rock Climbing
7-
Sokolík
UIAA Class 7-. To the right of the start of route no. 5, through the chimney and traverse… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Chrámová věž
Left of the Police route, up a crack to a balcony and directly up the face along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Chrámová věž
Left of Maňana's route via a wide, structured crack into a hollow and left to a ledge. Up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
4+
Chrámová věž
By stepping over from the massif (from SE) and left up the face to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Chrámová věž
From the connecting passage, up a chimney into a hollow, along a ledge right and up a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Chrámová věž
The start is below the SW face in the Temple Passage (behind Sokolík). Up a short crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5+
Okrajová stěna
In the southwest face, by the left crack (2 rings) into the small cave. By chimney to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Koutový masiv
Between Koutovým Massif and Koráb, via a chimney along its edge up to the widening (2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Paličatá
From the fore-summit on the south side of the tower, by curved crack to its end. Step… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Skalní koruna
Six meters right of the Old Route (arrow), by face, flake and face to the 1st ring. By… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Skalní koruna
Left of the start of the Valley Edge route, by small crack below the overhang, in it… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Paličatá
Right of the Southwest Route, by chimney between the tower and the adjacent block to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay Danger
4
Paličatá
By chimney between Paličatá and the block to the slanting platform. By chimney to the sub… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Skalní koruna
The start is twelve meters from the Old Route. By crack and chimney to the fore-summit… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Skalní koruna
From the gorge on the NE side of the tower, along the slab traverse right behind the edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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