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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6
Měsíční
UIAA cl. 6 Under the N corner of the tower via a corner to a platform with a rocking… Rock Climbing
6+
Měsíční
UIAA cl. 6+ Near the W edge along a narrow crack in the SW wall to the ledge. Up the wall… Rock Climbing
7
Měsíční
UIAA cl. 7 Right of route no. 1 via crack and right wall (ring) to the crack. Through it… Rock Climbing
?
Strojovna
Rock Climbing
9/9+
Sejček
Via the West ridge (3 bolts, ring, bolt, 2 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Pardubická
Via the East ridge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Pardubická
Through the left part of the NE wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Pardubická
Through the right part of the NE wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Pardubická
Along the wall along the north edge (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Pardubická
From the plateau side, via the SE chimney to the block and right up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Horní stěny
UIAA cl. 6Through the second crack (ring) to the top. Rock Climbing
6+
Horní stěny
UIAA cl. 6+About 3m above the ring, traverse in the wall to the sloping ledge on the… Rock Climbing
4
Loď
UIAA cl. 4Description missing Rock Climbing
3
Loď
UIAA cl. 3Description missing Rock Climbing
5+
Horní stěny
UIAA cl. 5+Through the first crack, partly chimney (ring) to the top. Rock Climbing
7-
Horní stěny
UIAA cl. 7-At the S end of the Upper Walls, through an 8m chimney, down the wall (ring)… Rock Climbing
6
Horní stěny
UIAA cl. 6Through the third crack, higher up through a chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
7+
Martinské stěny
UIAA cl. 7+Route no. 4 to the 2nd ring and through the crack to the end. Down the wall to… Rock Climbing
4
Lampasák
UIAA cl. 4Description missing Rock Climbing
4
Lampasák
UIAA cl. 4From the random side, traverse down to the lower edge and by building … Rock Climbing
6-
Loď
UIAA cl. 6-From NW through a crack to the end and right to the edge to the ring. Along… Rock Climbing
7-
Loď
UIAA cl. 7-Along the NE edge (2 rings) to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Loď
UIAA cl. 3Description missing Rock Climbing
5+
Martinské stěny
UIAA cl. 5+Right from route no. 2 through a crack to the ring. Up the wall to the right… Rock Climbing
6
Martinské stěny
UIAA cl. 6Start below the edge, split in the upper part. Along the edge and the wall…
4
Martinské stěny
UIAA cl. 4In the corner through the chimney and after a step down, through the second… Rock Climbing
7-
Martinské stěny
UIAA cl. 7-Through the chimney at the South edge of Martinský Walls to the ledge.… Rock Climbing
7
Martinské stěny
UIAA cl. 7From the right lower corner, diagonally down the wall below the crack. By… Rock Climbing
7-
Martinské stěny
UIAA cl. 7-Route no. 4 to the 'hours' and right up the wall (ring) to the ledge. Route no… Rock Climbing
9+
Martinská věž
Route 'Breaking Point'. From the 10th ring directly along the edge (2 rings) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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