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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

7+
Jannu
UIAA grade 7+. From SW via the chimney and the left wall (3 bolts) to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Jannu
UIAA grade 4. At the NW end of the courtyard, via a corner below the left crack. Up the… Rock Climbing
8-
Jannu
UIAA grade 8-. In the fall line of route No. 2's crack, directly up the wall (bolt) to… Rock Climbing
7-
Jannu
UIAA grade 7-. From the W edge, diagonally right up the wall to route No. 2's bolt and up… Rock Climbing
5
Carevna
UIAA grade 5. From the 1st corridor behind Cácora by crack in the NE wall. Rock Climbing
5
Carevna
UIAA grade 5. At the end of the 2nd corridor by chimneying crack along the corner crack,… Rock Climbing
5+
Carevna
UIAA grade 5+. From the SW by chimneying (ring) and crack. Rock Climbing
4
Carevna
UIAA grade 4. Above the chimney of route no. 1 on Podzimní via overhang and down the… Rock Climbing
7+
Carevna
UIAA grade 7+. (Aided) and up the NE wall (3 rings). Rock Climbing
7
Cácora
UIAA grade 7. From the lower part of the 1st corridor over blocks between Cácora and… Rock Climbing
6
Cácora
UIAA grade 6. (In memoriam Zdeňka Studničky). Up the chimney between Slunečná and Neznámá… Rock Climbing
6+
Cácora
UIAA grade 6+. Small crack right of the start of route no. 2 under the overhang. Traverse… Rock Climbing
5+
Carevna
UIAA grade 5+. Via route no. 3 to Slunečná to the ring. From the chimneying by step into… Rock Climbing
7+
Romantická
UIAA grade 7+. NE crack to the ring. Diagonally right up the wall to the 2nd ring. Along… Rock Climbing
4
Romantická
UIAA grade 4. From the facade (NE) side up the chimney between Romantická and Machovanka… Rock Climbing
8
Romantická
UIAA grade 8. From the 2nd ring directly up the edge. Rock Climbing
6+
Romantická
UIAA grade 6+. SW crack and small dihedral to the ring. (Aided, bolt placed), right up… Rock Climbing
6+
Machovanka
UIAA grade 6+. Right of route no. 1 by cracks to the ring. Down the wall and by gully to… Rock Climbing
4
Machovanka
UIAA grade 4. From the facade up the chimney to the constriction, along its outer edge. Rock Climbing
5+
Romantická
UIAA grade 5+. From the SW by crack between Machovanka and its pillar to the top of the… Rock Climbing
5+
Neznámá
UIAA grade 5+. From the ring right in the ledge and directly up the wall. Rock Climbing
3
Machovanka
UIAA grade 3. Up the chimney (narrowed at the top). Rock Climbing
4
Neznámá
UIAA cl. 4Up the chimney between Neznámá and Slunečná to the jammed boulder and down the… Rock Climbing
5
Neznámá
UIAA cl. 5In the front (NE) face via a right crack and higher up a narrow chimney to the… Rock Climbing
5
Machovanka
UIAA grade 5. In the facade (NE) from the corner between Machovanka and Neznámá, by… Rock Climbing
5
Neznámá
UIAA cl. 5Route no. 1 to the jammed boulder, traverse right in the chimney and up to the… Rock Climbing
6
Slunečná
UIAA cl. 6From the South up the chimney to the ring. Up the face and along the ridge to… Rock Climbing
4
Neznámá
UIAA cl. 4From the summit of Machovanka by jumping or rappelling into the NW face of… Rock Climbing
5
Slunečná
UIAA cl. 5Up the chimney between Slunečná and Neznámá to the jammed boulder. Above it via… Rock Climbing
5
Slunečná
UIAA cl. 5From the upper end of the 1st corridor via a crack in the SW face over an… Rock Climbing

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