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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

2
Klekták
Via a short plateau crack to the block and with a swing to the summit Rock Climbing Vertical wall
5
Klekták
From the NE, via the right crack (opposite the Plateau Route) to the summit Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall +1
3
Klekták
To the right of the route "Plateau Crack", via the middle crack to the summit Rock Climbing Vertical wall
1
Klekták
Jump from the main mass to the middle block Rock Climbing
6-
Tréninková stěna
Up the wall along the western edge (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Klekták
In the left part of the NE wall, from the left into the crack (loop), under the overhang … Rock Climbing
7-/7
Klekták
Start either from the southern or eastern edge, up the SE wall to the ledge to 1 BH and… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Klekták
To the right of the route "Middle Crack", via the third crack to its end (BH) and along… Rock Climbing
6+
Členitá
UIAA cl. 6+Description missing Rock Climbing
5
Členitá
UIAA cl. 5From the S, through a crack to a block with a small pine tree, through a… Rock Climbing
3
Členitá
UIAA cl. 3Through the crack in the NE face and higher up through a small chimney to a… Rock Climbing
7-
Členitá
UIAA cl. 7-Along the W edge (3 rings) to the top. Rock Climbing
6+
Členitá
UIAA cl. 6+Through the crack in the NE face to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Členitá
UIAA cl. 5+Right of route no. 5, up the wall to the ring and through the crack to the top. Rock Climbing
7+
Členitá
UIAA cl. 7+From NE, small rock steps to the 1st ring. Up the wall to the 2nd ring and… Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Tři sedla
UIAA grade 3. From the summit of Terasy (Terrace), traverse (step across) to the NW… Rock Climbing
3
Tři sedla
UIAA grade 3. Left via a crack in the SE wall to a small balcony. Via a small chimney and… Rock Climbing
4
Tři sedla
UIAA grade 4. From the saddle between the summits, via a crack to the SW summit. Rock Climbing
7-
Tři sedla
UIAA grade 7-. From NE, via the flake and wall to a bolt. With aid and via the crack to… Rock Climbing
7
Tři sedla
UIAA grade 7. Left of route No. 1, diagonally down the wall to the large hourglass (or … Rock Climbing
7
Tři sedla
UIAA grade 7. From the S edge, down the wall to the 1st bolt. Up the wall over the… Rock Climbing
6-
Tři sedla
UIAA grade 6-. Via route No. 1 to the Terrace on the pillar. Right up the wall beyond the… Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Tři sedla
UIAA grade 2. Via route No. 1a to the SW summit. Traverse (step across) to the small… Rock Climbing
4
Tři sedla
UIAA grade 4. From the gorge between 'Tři sedla' (Three Saddles) and 'Terasa' (Terrace)… Rock Climbing
5
Jannu
UIAA grade 5. At the NW end of the courtyard, between the Jannu and Terasy (Terrace)… Rock Climbing
3
Jannu
UIAA grade 3. Start in the chimney between the Pillar and the tower (access possible from… Rock Climbing
7-
Jannu
UIAA grade 7-. From SE, via route No. 1's chimney for about 2m. Traverse down in the… Rock Climbing
7-
Jannu
UIAA grade 7-. From W, from the boulder, via a crack to the pillar and right up the wall… Rock Climbing
5
Jannu
UIAA grade 5. From NW, via a system of small cracks and above them a crack, higher… Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Jannu
UIAA grade 2. From the summit of Terasy (Terrace), descend the wall to the pine tree and… Rock Climbing

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