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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6-
Skaut
Directly up the curving south edge, higher up left to the ledge and up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
6-
Skaut
From the NE fore-rock, up the wall to the ledge, then right past the edge and up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7-/7
Skaut
Rock Climbing
4-
Za-hradní
Along the south edge of the east tower to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
5+
Vyhlídková bašta
Between "Slastná" and "Masters" via a fine crack, wall, ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
5
Za-hradní
Up the northeast face of the east tower (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
4+
Za-hradní
From the ring, ascend the wall to the right and then follow the west edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Za-hradní
Up the NW face of the north tower (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
3
Za-hradní
Along the north edge of the east tower to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
4+
Za-hradní
To the left of the north edge of the north tower, up the slab and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Hradní
Follow the Nettle Path for about three meters, then left along the crack to its end. Up… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
7-/7
Hradní
Up the SW face to the ring and right along the edge n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6-
Hradní
Along the north edge over K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Hradní
Along the south edge, up the wall and slab to the ring. Up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
6
Hradní
From the east edge, ascend the wall diagonally right (ring) to the crack of the North… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5
Hradní
Up the NE face diagonally right to the crack and follow it to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
3
Hradní
By crack in W face to the top. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +2
5
Hradní
To the right of the north edge, ascend the wall and cracks from the right into the hollow… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
4-
Hradní
Via old route three meters to the first ledge, in it traverse left and by face to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Barokní
From the hiking path by the eastern edge over the roof-like overhang (ring) to the ledge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6+/7-
Barokní
Through the middle of the valley face over the overhang (ring) to the 1st ring of the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Barokní
Via Traverz route to the ledge and along it left to the SW side of the tower. By face … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
6
Barokní
From the ledge through the middle of the NE face to the ring and by face right to the 2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
5
Šikmá
UIAA class 6+ SW crack to the saddle and left part of the NW face to the ring. By aid to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6-
Barokní
In the saddle by face over the overhang to the ledge and then right to K. By crack to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
7-/7
Šikmá
Rock Climbing
5
Šikmá
UIAA Class 5 From the SW, via crack to the balcony. Aid climbing into the gully (ring)… Rock Climbing
5
Šikmá
UIAA Class 5 To the balcony via crack from the NE. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Srna
Overhanging valley crack (1st R), to the right up the wall and edge to the platform. Up… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Srna
Below the Sunny Route along the edge, up the wall over 2 K further to the K of the Sunny… Rock Climbing

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