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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

3
Lump
Rock Climbing
3
Lump
Via the chimney in the saddle wall (K) to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Lump
To the left in the SE wall to the crack, through it to the pine tree and to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Lump
Opposite Medvědice, via the right crack to the saddle and via the Old Route to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Lump
From the second balcony, via the corner crack directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Lump
From the start of the Left Valley Route, traverse along a slanting shelf under the corner… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
5+
Lump
To the left in the NE wall, via a crack (shared ring) to the saddle and via the East… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6+/7-
Lump
Via the right valley route under the corner, up it onto the pillar and via a crack to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7/7+
Lump
Via a small crack to the ring. Up a gully to the ledge to the second ring and via an… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2+
Lump
In the right part of the NW wall, via the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Beata
From the start of the Valley route, traverse along the ledge about seven meters to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Beata
Left of the SE edge via a crack, slightly left at the top, then diagonally right along… Rock Climbing
5+
Beata
Left of Heavenly Way, up the East wall to the ring and along the wall edge to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Beata
Left of the North Crack route, up the wall (ring) to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Beata
From NE via a short crack to its end and traverse right along the wall to the ring. Up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
4-
Beata
Up the South wall into the hollow and up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Kuchtík
Rock Climbing
3
Beata
Through the crack under the overhang to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Kuchtík
Along the South edge over the 1st ring right to the ring of 'Kojenecká výživa' (Baby Food… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Kuchtík
Along the SE wall to the balcony and up the wall to the ring. From the left, along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2+
Beata
From NW wall diagonally right to the balcony. Along the wall edge to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Kuchtík
UIAA Class 6+. In the main wall, right to the balcony (ring). Left over the overhang into… Rock Climbing
3
Kuchtík
Directly up the N edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Kuchtík
UIAA Class 2. From the N edge, right along the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Králíkárna
UIAA Class 5+. Through the left part of the SE wall, continuing the climb and via gully … Rock Climbing
5+
Králíkárna
UIAA Class 6+. Through the right part of the SE wall to the crack, via it (ring) to the… Rock Climbing
4+
Kuchtík
UIAA Class 5. From the NE fore-summit, via left crack and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Králíkárna
UIAA Class 5+. From the NW via chimney (ring), continuing the climb and up the wall to… Rock Climbing
3
Králíkárna
Through the middle of the SW wall to a ledge and via gully to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Králíkárna
UIAA Class 5+. Via crack in the NE wall (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing

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