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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

3
Náhradní
From the passage into the SW crack, higher up via a double crack to the false summit and… Rock Climbing
4-
Vnuk
UIAA cl. 4. From E from the terrain traverse down the wall and directly up the wall. Rock Climbing
4
Vnuk
From NW by opposition between Vnuk (Grandson) and Větrná (Windy) up to the widening.… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Společenské mrtvoly
Rock Climbing
2+
Společenské mrtvoly
Rock Climbing
2+
Společenské mrtvoly
Rock Climbing
2+
Rodinný přítel
Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Rodinný přítel
Rock Climbing
3
Rodinný přítel
Rock Climbing
4-
Rodinný přítel
Rock Climbing
4
Čárli
UIAA 4. From the NW corner and then the wall. Rock Climbing
4-
Čárli
UIAA 4. Up the crack in the NE face to the ring. Traverse down the wall and directly up… Rock Climbing
6
Čárli
Rock Climbing
3
Rodinný přítel
Rock Climbing
2+
Rodinný přítel
From the NW chimney over a wedged block into the saddle and right up the wall. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Čárli
Rock Climbing
?
Čárli
AZ cave between the tower and Old cracks on wedged blocks and the wall to the right onto… Rock Climbing
4+
Růže
UIAA grade 5. From the chimney between Trn and Růže, by the crack (ring) to the plateau.… Rock Climbing
3
Růže
Right of the Old Route, by the wall (hourglass) to K. By the overhanging gully to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8-/8
Růže
Rock Climbing
4+
Růže
UIAA grade 5. Left of route no. 1, traverse left into the gully and follow it to the… Rock Climbing
2+
Růže
UIAA Class 2. From NW from the blocks via the chimney to the plateau. Over the 'leaves'… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Růže
UIAA grade 7-. Via route no. 4, about 3m above the K (ring/bolt). Up the wall to the… Rock Climbing
6-
Trn
To the left of the Northeast Wall route, up the wall left under the 'head' and via the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Trn
UIAA Class 6. Via the corner in the valley wall into a small cave. Up the wall (ring) to… Rock Climbing
6
Trn
To the left of the Valley Route, initially via an overhanging slanting crack on a fist… Rock Climbing
2+
Trn
From the Rose balcony, traverse and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Trn
Northeast wall and North ridge to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Lump
In the right part of the SE wall, via a crack, higher up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Lump
To the left of the East Route, up the wall over an overhang to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay

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