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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

3
Brána
Up the upper (NW) wall and right along the edge to the top. Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Čarodějnice
(UIAA 8-)West wall (2 rings) to the hourglass of route no. 1 and then to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Čarodějnice
(UIAA 6-)From the higher platform in the right part of the valley side, diagonally down… Rock Climbing
5+
Čarodějnice
(UIAA 6+)Along the left valley edge, 10m up the wall, then diagonally right up the wall … Rock Climbing
4-
Sedlo
Up the wall along the upper (W) edge to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Sedlo
Rock Climbing
2+
Sedlo
In the upper (NW) wall, via a shallow gully to the saddle and left along the edge to the… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Sedlo
Rock Climbing
3
Čmelák
Rock Climbing
3
Čmelák
(UIAA 3)Step from the boulder onto the upper edge, briefly upwards, then diagonally right… Rock Climbing
2+
Čmelák
(UIAA 2)From the upper side by building (stacking) to the chimney and through it to the… Rock Climbing
8-/8
Krkavec
Rock Climbing
6-
Krkavec
From the SE crooked crack to K and by the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Havran
From the uphill side traverse left over K and by the valley edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Trubač
From the small balcony under the bolt traverse by wall right and by wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Trubač
From the uphill gully traverse over steps in the NW wall left to the hole and by squeeze… Rock Climbing
4-
Trubač
Rock Climbing
5+
Trubač
From the uphill gully by crack onto the pillar and by wall along the south edge (bolt) to… Rock Climbing
3
Lvíče
(UIAA 3)From the inner space over the stuck boulder between towers. By the chimney… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Lev
(UIAA 6)By crack in the left part of the valley wall. Rock Climbing
?
Lev
(UIAA 6-)By crack in the right part of the NW wall over overhang, by crack into the… Rock Climbing
3
Lev
(UIAA 3)From the neighboring massif descend by crack and step-over onto the pillar. By… Rock Climbing
3
Lev
(UIAA 3)From the inner space over the stuck boulder between towers. By chimney left below… Rock Climbing
5
Kočka
(UIAA 6)From the uphill gully by chimney climb to the hole and by crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Kočka
From boulders on the uphill side right on ledges to the balcony under the NE wall. Right… Rock Climbing
5
Kočka
(UIAA 6)From the SW gully by crack into the window and by crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Kočka
(UIAA 5+)From the boulder on the uphill side right on blocks to the balcony under the NE… Rock Climbing
6
Hřib
Rock Climbing
?
Hřib
From the edge by a leap to the small ledge and by wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Hřib
(UIAA 4)From the edge by descent and by aid climbing from the break-through to the summit. Rock Climbing

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