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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

7-/7
Hornická
By edge across 4K to the ledge and Baldova crack. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Hornická
Rock Climbing
5+
Hornická
kl. UIAA 5+To the ledge by crack in the east wall. Rock Climbing
5
Hornická
kl. UIAA 5+Chimney to the ledge and crack. Rock Climbing
5
Velký bratr
kl. UIAA 5+From the south, chimney to a ledge to the ring. Then gully and higher up the… Rock Climbing
4-
Malý bratr
kl. UIAA 4From the south, chimney to a ledge to the ring. Up from the overhang with… Rock Climbing Danger
5+
Velký bratr
kl. UIAA 6+From the south, from boulders, wall to the ring. Building left and crack to… Rock Climbing
6-
Hornická
Northern edge (ring) to the ledge and via the Upland Chimney route to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Kit
Rock Climbing
6
Servít
At the southern edge, below the 1st [rock feature - K], and up the face slightly to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4-
Kit
Rock Climbing
4+
Kit
Rock Climbing
4-
Jedová chýše
Rock Climbing
2+
Kit
From the North, up the ridge to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Jedová chýše
Via the saddle chimney to a pillar and up the face to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Jedová chýše
Rock Climbing
4+
Jedová chýše
From the SW chimney, up the face across [rock feature - K] to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Jedová chýše
SE up the chimney and face to the summit. Rock Climbing Danger
3
Severní terasa
Rock Climbing
3
Severní terasa
From the SE from a niche, right up a chimney over blocks to a pillar. Via the Průzkum… Rock Climbing
4-
Severní terasa
Rock Climbing
4-
Severní terasa
Rock Climbing
4+
Severní terasa
From the NE from the stone bridge, up a short chimney, along the edge to a ledge, then… Rock Climbing
4-
Severní terasa
Right SW crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Severní terasa
Route on sun
4+
Severní terasa
Rock Climbing
6-
Náchodské věže
From the start of the South Route, up the right-hand crack across Africa and the face (2… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Náchodské věže
From the South, up the chimney between the 4th and 5th towers, with a traverse and crack… Rock Climbing Textile belay

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