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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4+
Pidluke Padluke
From the plateau side, traverse right on a ledge to the West ridge towards the clock… Rock Climbing
3
Pidluke Padluke
From the plateau side, traverse left on a ledge and ascend the SE wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Jižák
Rock Climbing
5
Jižák
Rock Climbing
4-
Jižák
Rock Climbing
5+
Jižák
Rock Climbing
5
Azazelo
Up the left upper (northern) edge to the top. Rock Climbing Danger
2+
Jižák
Up the upper (NW) crack and chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Azazelo
In the middle of the NW wall to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Azazelo
Up the rounded western edge past the ring to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Jižák
Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Figurant
Up the sharp western edge to the fore-summit, step over and up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Figurant
To the right in the SE wall, up the wall and chimney onto the ledge. To the left up the… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Figurant
Rock Climbing
5+
Figurant
Up the SW wall past the 1st ring to the fore-summit. On the ledge, traverse right and up… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Penzista
Up the NW crack and small crack past the 1st ring to the 2nd ring, then up the wall to… Rock Climbing
6
Ríša
From the approach outcrop of the Traverse route up the wall to the ring. Up the wall to… Rock Climbing
4+
Ríša
(UIAA 5) From the SW outcrop, traverse left through holes up to/beyond the edge. Up the… Rock Climbing
4+
Ríša
(UIAA 5) From the East, from the boulder into the hole. To the right, up the receding… Rock Climbing
2+
Columbia
From the N summit, step over to the tree and to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Columbia
(UIAA 6+)In the SE face, via the right gully to the fixed belay, traverse down past the… Rock Climbing
6-
Columbia
Rock Climbing
6-
Columbia
Rock Climbing
4+
Apollo
(UIAA 5)From SE diagonally down the face to the ring. Up the face to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Apollo
(UIAA 5+)Through the middle of the SE face and gully to the ring. Right up the face to… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Apollo
To the right of the start of the 'Heavenly Way' route, climb (1st ring) into the window… Rock Climbing
3
Columbia
(UIAA 3)From W up the face to the pillar. Overcome it and up the face to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Apollo
(UIAA 3)From SE up the face right, traverse at the fixed belay to the E ridge and along… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Apollo
(UIAA 7-)Via route no. 2 to the fixed belay and directly up the face (ring) to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Kruhová
To the left of the Sokolík route up the wall to the 1st ring and up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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