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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6
Sokolíček
From SE, by the wall to the 1st ring. Above the ring, traverse left in the ledge to a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Sokolíček
From SW, from the path in the plateau gorge, via a crack and a chimney between "Sokolíček… Rock Climbing
2+
Švéd
From the plateau side, via aid climbing and the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Švéd
Through the chimney in the NW wall (1st ring) into the winding crack (2nd ring). Up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Švéd
From the terrace, up the SE wall to the right into the crack and then to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Švéd
From the terrace, via the S edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Sluj Českých bratří
Right part of the SE wall (ring) to the ledge. Via 'Kuželova' route to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Švéd
From the terrace on the plateau side, via the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Sluj Českých bratří
From the cave under the wedged boulder, chimney up to the ring. Up the wall to the left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Sluj Českých bratří
The entry is in the middle of the cave at a gentle bend in the passage. Up the wall to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Sluj Českých bratří
On the valley side near the E edge, through the corner between the tower and "Skrček" to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Sluj Českých bratří
In the left part of the valley wall via a crack (2 rings) to the top of the valley… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Spare Route
6
Sluj Českých bratří
Via the right valley crack (2 rings) to the top of the valley rampart and follow … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Spare Route
Přeskok
Sluj Českých bratří
From the terrace below the NW wall of the upland rampart, by crossing over the cave to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Sluj Českých bratří
To the left of the 'Údolní spára' route, up the wall to the 1st ring and via a double… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6+/7-
Sluj Českých bratří
Along the right valley edge, 3 rings and traverse the wall via the 4th ring into ?'Fredy… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Sluj Českých bratří
The start is at the end of the cave in its narrowest point. Via the chimney to the top of… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Sluj Českých bratří
Via 'Letecká' to the 1st ring. Directly up the wall to the 2nd ring and follow 'Kočičí… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Sluj Českých bratří
From the inner space of the "Cave of Czech Brethren" via a double crack above the carved… Rock Climbing
4+
Sluj Českých bratří
The start is at the end of the "Cave of Czech Brethren" to the right. Via a crack to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Sluj Českých bratří
From the terrace below the NW wall of the upland rampart, via the corner to a sloping… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Sluj Českých bratří
Via 'Sokolí volání' to the ring. From the ring, diagonally left up the wall to the ledge.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Sluj Českých bratří
The start is at the edge to the left of the 'Oknem' route. Left up the wall above the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Sluj Českých bratří
From the upland side to the right via the corner to the ledge, traverse left along it to… Rock Climbing
6
Sluj Českých bratří
The start is at the E edge of the upland rampart. Traverse right behind the edge below… Rock Climbing
3
Sluj Českých bratří
Left part of the SE wall of the upland rampart below the overhang. To the right, by crack… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Sluj Českých bratří
In the center of the SW wall via a crack to the ledge. Follow 'Kuželova' route to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Sluj Českých bratří
At the left edge of the SW wall, straddle against a boulder (1st ring) to the 2nd ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Sluj Českých bratří
To the right of the W edge up the wall to the 1st ring of the 'Kočičí hřbet' route. Left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6+/7-
Sluj Českých bratří
From the through-chimney, approximately 3m up the chimney and traverse the wall left to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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