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Climbing at Vysoká Lípa

282 routes
45 areas
2–10-/10 grades

Vysoká Lípa is a Bohemian Switzerland National Park sector with more than 280 routes on 45 sandstone towers. The rock castle of Šaunštejn (Loupežnický hrad) has the most routes, followed by Tunelová věž, Dlouhá stěna, Kniha, Loupežník, Rysí věž, Bohatý mlynář and Jizerská věž. Protection is traditional – rings and textile protection, routes often in the shade; grades from 2 to 10-/10.

Part of 9. Bohemian Switzerland NP, Vysoká Lípa has 282 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2 to 10-/10. Explore its 45 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Spare Route, Route in shadow.

Rules

Inside the national park you may climb only on permitted rocks.

The park administration announces seasonal access bans each year for sites with nesting birds. Some towers are closed permanently (the "Jetřichovice – zakázané" sector). Check the ČHS crag database and the park administration's website before every visit.

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Šaunštejn (Loupežnický hrad) 45 routes Tunelová věž 13 routes Dlouhá stěna 10 routes Kniha 10 routes Loupežník 9 routes Rysí věž 9 routes Bohatý mlynář 9 routes Jizerská věž 9 routes Pachole 8 routes Husitská věž 8 routes Listopadová věž (Honzík) 8 routes Vřesová stěna (Osamělý kámen) 8 routes Česká jehla 7 routes Srbská věž 7 routes Lužická věž 7 routes Opuštěná stěna 6 routes Drážďanský kužel 6 routes Kulisák 6 routes Saská věž 6 routes Strážce údolí 6 routes Paroh 6 routes Černá lebka 5 routes Zuzanka 5 routes Věž bratří Nehasilových 5 routes Větrná věž (Ošemetná věž) 4 routes Medvědí zátiší 4 routes Medvěd 4 routes Zelený Jindřich 4 routes Sarkafarka 4 routes Sakráček 4 routes Rytíř 4 routes Křinický trpaslík 3 routes Břit 3 routes Kouzelník 3 routes Davidův kámen 3 routes Medvědice 3 routes Měšec 3 routes Zámecký kámen 3 routes Mechový císař 3 routes Zelená jehla 3 routes Upír 2 routes Zadní Jetřichovický kužel 2 routes Mezník 2 routes Medvědí dráp 2 routes Pašerák 1 route
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Břit
From the massif, descend right via an overgrown chimney to the ledge, then along it to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8+/9-
Břit
Along the valley edge over 3 BH to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Pašerák
By technical ascent to the upper edge and then along it to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Dlouhá stěna
m right of the Left South Chimney, via a two-part chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Dlouhá stěna
Right of the 'Surprise' route, via a hand crack to the end and then left via a wide crack… Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
2+
Dlouhá stěna
From the start, take the right crack to the pre-summit and then the wall to the ridge.… Rock Climbing
5
Dlouhá stěna
In the middle of the S face, via the falcon crack, higher up the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Dlouhá stěna
Completely to the left in the S face, via the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Dlouhá stěna
Left of the South Route, via a wide crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
2+
Dlouhá stěna
In the middle of the S face, take the left chimney to the balcony, then up the wall via… Rock Climbing
4-
Dlouhá stěna
Right in the N wall, by corner higher up the pillar to the balcony. Left by crack to the… Rock Climbing
2+
Dlouhá stěna
Left in the N wall, by corner chimney between the block and the pillar, higher up… Rock Climbing
2+
Dlouhá stěna
From the upper (E) side, pass through the chimney in the W direction and briefly right… Rock Climbing
4+
Sarkafarka
Along the plateau edge directly to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Sarkafarka
Along the plateau edge, higher up the wall to the right to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Sarkafarka
Start about 3m right of the "Plateau Route" wall over the overhang directly to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Zámecký kámen
From E up the wall via carved steps to the top. Rock Climbing
8+/9-
Zámecký kámen
N wall over the overhang to the ring and along the overhang edge via a bolt to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Zámecký kámen
In the left part of the S wall up, left behind the edge into the gully and through it to… Rock Climbing
4+
Sarkafarka
Along the blunt valley edge, higher up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Větrná věž (Ošemetná věž)
Start left of the "Southeast Way" wall across the circle to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Větrná věž (Ošemetná věž)
Directly up the plateau edge to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Větrná věž (Ošemetná věž)
Through the center of the Southeast wall along the crack, higher up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Strážce údolí
Descent in the massif, jump to the balcony and up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Strážce údolí
Through the right part of the South wall to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Strážce údolí
Between the massif and the tower upwards and up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Větrná věž (Ošemetná věž)
Through the chimney between the tower and the block onto the block, then cross over to… Rock Climbing
8+/9-
Šaunštejn (Loupežnický hrad)
To the right of the staircase in the valley wall, up the crack into the notch and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Šaunštejn (Loupežnický hrad)
To the right of the gate, up the crack to the platform above the first staircase. Up the… Rock Climbing
6
Šaunštejn (Loupežnický hrad)
At the end of the first staircase, left to the ledge to the ring. Up the staircase crack,… Rock Climbing

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