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Climbing at West Bohemia

9215 routes
14 areas
1-–12 grades

West Bohemia has no single dominant rock town – its crags are scattered across the Plzeň and Karlovy Vary regions. The largest climbing area is the granite rocks around the village of Petrohrad near Podbořany, with twelve sectors (Brána, Vyhlídková skála, Pod hradem, Rybníček, Vlčí kopec, Josemit and more), the second largest is Žihle in the northern Plzeň region with the Viklany, Bába a Dědek and Sklárna sectors. There is more climbing at Ležky, on Kozelka and Polínský vrch (Plzeň North), at Loupensko and Vlčtejn (Plzeň South), at Radyně in Plzeň, in the Rokycany, Klatovy, Tachov and Domažlice regions (the Babylon quarry), in the Karlovy Vary region with the Svatošské skály in the Ohře valley, in the Slavkov Forest, in the Brdy and on the Goethe Rocks near Aš in the westernmost tip of the country.

Trad climbing with your own cams dominates, supplemented by fixed and textile protection; sport climbing is found mainly in quarries, such as the Babylon quarry, or on the Kňafák crag in the Slavkov Forest. There are crags in both sun and shade, so climbing is possible most of the year. Some crags lie in protected areas – check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association before visiting.

Part of Czech Republic, West Bohemia has 9215 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1- to 12. Explore its 14 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Route in shadow, Traditional Climbing, Fixed belay, Route on sun.

Rules

The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas and the local regional commission's rules apply: do not alter the rock or holds, do not climb on wet rock, and follow ČHS principles for first ascents.

6-
Bariéra
First pillar from the left, directly over 4 bolts and a small overhang. Further over a… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
5+
Bariéra
Up the squeezed pillar in the left part. Through the middle over 4 bolts and a prominent… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
2
Nad Smolárnou
Up a small wall and a small corner. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +4
6+
Bariéra
From the small balcony along the small crack diagonally right to a piton. Up the wall… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +2
6+/7-
Bariéra
Start from the stream, 2m left of the "Sunset Crack". Up to a piton and further over a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Overhang
5
Nad Smolárnou
Left over the overhang to the balcony, directly to the top. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +2
5+
Nad Smolárnou
Up an overhanging small wall. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay +2
5
Nad Smolárnou
Up an overhanging small wall, left onto a step (hourglass), up the small corner. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +4
6
Nad Smolárnou
Right over the overhang to the balcony and along the edge to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +3
4
Nad Smolárnou
Along the small edge under the overhang, step right onto a step, to the edge on the left… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +5
2
Nad Smolárnou
Diagonally left up a disappearing corner to the top or a variant higher up to the right. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +4
4+
Nad Smolárnou
From the piton in the corner, right to the balcony and along a faint edge to a step and… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +4
3
Nad Smolárnou
Up the small corner under the overhang to the bolt, left to a step to the piton,… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +5
2
Nad Smolárnou
By stemming along the edge or inside. Caution! Dangerous when wet! Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +4
4
Nad Smolárnou
Along the edge to the top. Caution! Loose in places! Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +4
3
Nad Smolárnou
Up the stepped small pillar to a piton and over a small summit overhang. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +5
5+
Nad Smolárnou
Up the overhanging curved edge to the bolt, over ledges (hourglasses) and through the… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +4
4+
Nad Smolárnou
Up the chimney to a piton, right and up over steps under the summit block to another… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +4
5+
Nad Smolárnou
Diagonally right to the balcony to a piton and bolt. Over the small overhang along the… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +4
4
Nad Smolárnou
Up the chimney under the overhang, through the corner to the top. Caution! The bottom is… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3
3
Bludný Holanďan
Right blunt edge. Rock Climbing
3
Štěpnice
Up the wall (sk, bh). Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +4
2
Sfinga
along the laid-back edge to the right of the Věra route Rock Climbing
3
Bludný Holanďan
Slightly to the right of the left blunt edge. Rock Climbing
3+
Štěpnice
Pillar to the birch tree (rumbling block above it), freely over the slab via (bh) to the… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +4
6+
Štěpnice
Corner, harder move into the open crack (sk) running to the right and along the edge (2… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +4
6
Štěpnice
Slab, harder move to the first (bh), then over (2 bh) under the boulder and from the left… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +4
4-
Štěpnice
Up the wall (bh). Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +4
3-
Štěpnice
Slab. Unprotected. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route on sun +1
2
Štěpnice
Wall to the right over rumbling blocks. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3

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