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Climbing at West Bohemia

9215 routes
14 areas
1-–12 grades

West Bohemia has no single dominant rock town – its crags are scattered across the Plzeň and Karlovy Vary regions. The largest climbing area is the granite rocks around the village of Petrohrad near Podbořany, with twelve sectors (Brána, Vyhlídková skála, Pod hradem, Rybníček, Vlčí kopec, Josemit and more), the second largest is Žihle in the northern Plzeň region with the Viklany, Bába a Dědek and Sklárna sectors. There is more climbing at Ležky, on Kozelka and Polínský vrch (Plzeň North), at Loupensko and Vlčtejn (Plzeň South), at Radyně in Plzeň, in the Rokycany, Klatovy, Tachov and Domažlice regions (the Babylon quarry), in the Karlovy Vary region with the Svatošské skály in the Ohře valley, in the Slavkov Forest, in the Brdy and on the Goethe Rocks near Aš in the westernmost tip of the country.

Trad climbing with your own cams dominates, supplemented by fixed and textile protection; sport climbing is found mainly in quarries, such as the Babylon quarry, or on the Kňafák crag in the Slavkov Forest. There are crags in both sun and shade, so climbing is possible most of the year. Some crags lie in protected areas – check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association before visiting.

Part of Czech Republic, West Bohemia has 9215 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1- to 12. Explore its 14 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Route in shadow, Traditional Climbing, Fixed belay, Route on sun.

Rules

The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas and the local regional commission's rules apply: do not alter the rock or holds, do not climb on wet rock, and follow ČHS principles for first ascents.

6
Lom
Right edge of the valley pillar over the bolt. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5+
Lom
Western face of the protruding pillar Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +2
3
Lom
Right in the eastern side wall Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3
7+
Lom
Left along the edge in the valley's northern pillar Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7-
Lom
From the right edge of the wall (from the corner) traverse the crack leftwards to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
3
Lom
Wall on the left in the E wall Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3
5
Lom
Completely on the right wall Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +2
7+
Lom
Right part of the wall via bh Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8-/8
Lom
d) (no jump start, without the crack left, 7B SD)
7+
Lom
To the right of the crack up the wall via three pitons directly, then onto the arête to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6
Lom
The right of the two routes on the left wall, via three rivets/bolts. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7
Lom
In the middle of the wall via two pitons and one bolt Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5
Lom
Through the crack in the left part Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3
9+/10-
Placička
p) (8B SD – project)
5+
Lom
Slab on the left via two rivets/bolts Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6-
Lom
b) (without the crack right)
4
Placička
8+
Placička
5+
Placička
k) (7B SD)
7+/8-
5+
Placička
m) CH(from the slopper)
4
Placička
f) (7A SD)
8/8+
Placička
i) SD(without the right arête)
7-
Placička
4+
Placička
3
Placička
7/7+
Placička
a) (on the arête without the rock bottom)

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