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Climbing at West Bohemia

9215 routes
14 areas
1-–12 grades

West Bohemia has no single dominant rock town – its crags are scattered across the Plzeň and Karlovy Vary regions. The largest climbing area is the granite rocks around the village of Petrohrad near Podbořany, with twelve sectors (Brána, Vyhlídková skála, Pod hradem, Rybníček, Vlčí kopec, Josemit and more), the second largest is Žihle in the northern Plzeň region with the Viklany, Bába a Dědek and Sklárna sectors. There is more climbing at Ležky, on Kozelka and Polínský vrch (Plzeň North), at Loupensko and Vlčtejn (Plzeň South), at Radyně in Plzeň, in the Rokycany, Klatovy, Tachov and Domažlice regions (the Babylon quarry), in the Karlovy Vary region with the Svatošské skály in the Ohře valley, in the Slavkov Forest, in the Brdy and on the Goethe Rocks near Aš in the westernmost tip of the country.

Trad climbing with your own cams dominates, supplemented by fixed and textile protection; sport climbing is found mainly in quarries, such as the Babylon quarry, or on the Kňafák crag in the Slavkov Forest. There are crags in both sun and shade, so climbing is possible most of the year. Some crags lie in protected areas – check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association before visiting.

Part of Czech Republic, West Bohemia has 9215 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1- to 12. Explore its 14 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Route in shadow, Traditional Climbing, Fixed belay, Route on sun.

Rules

The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas and the local regional commission's rules apply: do not alter the rock or holds, do not climb on wet rock, and follow ČHS principles for first ascents.

7
Špičák
By crack in the valley wall (sling) into the niche under the overhang (hourglass).… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay +3
7-
Špičák
Left of the eastern route over 2 bolts to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6-
Borová
Right of the Elixir route, up the center of the wall over a horizontal gash to the summit. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route in shadow +2
5+
Borová
Overhanging edge to the right of the corner crack directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route in shadow +2
4
Špičák
Through the chimney at the left edge of the valley wall (sling) to its end, then… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route in shadow +3
4
Borová
Wide corner crack in the South wall over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay +3
2
Palička
Upper wall from the North, any way, to the summit. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route in shadow +1
2
Soudeček
Up the upper wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route in shadow +1
5-
Soudeček
Along the valley crack to a ledge (knot right behind the edge) and up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route in shadow +2
4-
Borová
Edge to the left of the corner crack to the balcony and along the edge directly to the… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route in shadow +2
5+
Palcát
South wall to the ring, from there down upwards to a ledge and from it to the summit. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay +3
4+
Rozeklaná
Up the wall between Horrible and Biogest along a small crack (knot) under an overhang … Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
4-
Rozeklaná
Center of the wall right of the Horrible Crack to the balcony and over the overhang to… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route in shadow +2
4
Rozeklaná
Along the winding crack in the valley wall to the terrace and left to the summit block. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route in shadow +2
2
Pagoda
From the East along the crack and through the corner to the summit. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route in shadow +2
5
Pagoda
Up the wall over several delicate notches to the summit. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route in shadow +2
2
Pagoda
Along the crack in the S wall to the balcony and diagonally right to the summit. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route in shadow +2
4+
Pagoda
Right part of the valley wall to the balcony and diagonally right to the summit. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route in shadow +2
4+
Mechová
Through a shallow crack in the south face up to below the overhang (sling). Along the… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route in shadow +2
4+
Mechová
Up the wall to the right of the path, sliding upwards to the summit. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route in shadow +1
3
Beruška
Through the chimney in the middle of the wall (watch in pocket, or knot) to the sub… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay +3
7
Beruška
Through the right part of the wall directly to the BH, up the wall into the recess and a…
7+
Beruška
Over the overhang directly to the ring and up to the summit. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay +2
5
Beruška
Through a narrow crack to the right of the chimney (knot) to the pre-summit plateau and… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route in shadow +2
3
Poradní skála
Through the narrowing chimney in the valley wall into a small cave (hourglass) and… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route in shadow +2
4+
Beruška
Up the rounded W pillar over the bulge to the hole, further right to a small balcony and… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route in shadow +2
6
Beruška
Up the wall to the left of the narrow chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route in shadow +2
6-
Poradní skála
Along the crack to the right of Třívaječná to the ledge (ring) and up the overhanging… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay +3
5
Poradní skála
Along the W edge upwards and diagonally right to the ring, up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay +2
5
Poradní skála
Around the overhang in the valley wall from the right along the edge to the balcony, ring… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay +2

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