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Climbing at West Bohemia

9215 routes
14 areas
1-–12 grades

West Bohemia has no single dominant rock town – its crags are scattered across the Plzeň and Karlovy Vary regions. The largest climbing area is the granite rocks around the village of Petrohrad near Podbořany, with twelve sectors (Brána, Vyhlídková skála, Pod hradem, Rybníček, Vlčí kopec, Josemit and more), the second largest is Žihle in the northern Plzeň region with the Viklany, Bába a Dědek and Sklárna sectors. There is more climbing at Ležky, on Kozelka and Polínský vrch (Plzeň North), at Loupensko and Vlčtejn (Plzeň South), at Radyně in Plzeň, in the Rokycany, Klatovy, Tachov and Domažlice regions (the Babylon quarry), in the Karlovy Vary region with the Svatošské skály in the Ohře valley, in the Slavkov Forest, in the Brdy and on the Goethe Rocks near Aš in the westernmost tip of the country.

Trad climbing with your own cams dominates, supplemented by fixed and textile protection; sport climbing is found mainly in quarries, such as the Babylon quarry, or on the Kňafák crag in the Slavkov Forest. There are crags in both sun and shade, so climbing is possible most of the year. Some crags lie in protected areas – check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association before visiting.

Part of Czech Republic, West Bohemia has 9215 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1- to 12. Explore its 14 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Route in shadow, Traditional Climbing, Fixed belay, Route on sun.

Rules

The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas and the local regional commission's rules apply: do not alter the rock or holds, do not climb on wet rock, and follow ČHS principles for first ascents.

7
Zámecká věž
Up the left edge of the valley wall about 3 m, traverse to the 1st ring. Then lower up… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay +3
7-
Zámecká věž
From the 1st ring of Eva's route directly up to the second ring of the Vyprahlo route. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
6+
Brána
Over the ring above the wedged boulder along the right edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
4
Brána
From the wedged boulder on the Normal Route, left to the edge (ring) to the small crack… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay +3
2
Brána
From the Castle to the Gate. Rock Climbing
2
Zámecká věž
From the upper side diagonally down and up to the E edge and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route in shadow +2
5+
Brána
Eastern face under the overhang to the 1st circle. From there either directly through the… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay +4
6
Brána
From V on the wedged boulder to the circle. Down to the edge and directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay +3
6
Brána
Along the ledge over the overhang (circle) to the summit. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay +3
5+
Brána
Start like Jam Session, along the ledge and beyond the edge to the circle, onto the edge… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay +4
3
Zámek
Through the chimney between Zámek (Castle) and Zámecká věž (Castle Tower). Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route in shadow +2
4
Brána
Along the sloping ledge in the western face to the circle, right to the rounded edge and…
3
Brána
From the west to the wedged boulder (circle) chimney-like upwards, then into the western…
1
Zámek
From the summit of Brána (Gate) by jumping to the ledge of Zámek (Castle).
4
Brána
Along the sloping ledge in the western face to the circle, from the circle left and…
4
Zámek
Through the chimney of the route Wide Chimney, briefly upwards then left through a… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route in shadow +2
3
Zámek
From the wedged boulder (between Brána and Zámek) through the middle of the small wall. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route on sun +2
8-
Zámek
Carefully to the first circle and then directly upwards using side holds. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Zámek
From E from the right onto the wedged boulder (circle). Along the right edge to the… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay +3
3
Zámek
Through the wide chimney with a small cave, by bridging to the summit. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route on sun +2
4
Trojče
Along the edge to the right of the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route in shadow +2
6
Zámek
2 m left of Dana's route via a crack to the bolt and up the wall directly to Dana's route…
5+
Zámek
Start in the fall line of the roof-like overhang (cr.) over it and up the slabby wall to…
7
Trojče
Overhang through the circle to the summit. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay +1
2
Trojče
From the east, three small chimneys lead to the summit. The right and middle ones are… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route in shadow +2
4
Trojče
Through the pillar between the middle and right chimneys to the summit. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route in shadow +2
4+
Trojče
Right of the 1st chimney along the edge to the summit. Loop on the ledge under the… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route in shadow +2
5
Trojče
Broken crack, overhanging at the top, to the summit. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route in shadow +2
6
Trojče
Through the middle of the overhanging pillar (circle) to the summit. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay +2
6
Trojče
From the foreground rock at the SW face over the overhang to the sloping balcony, from… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay +2

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