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Climbing at West Bohemia

9215 routes
14 areas
1-–12 grades

West Bohemia has no single dominant rock town – its crags are scattered across the Plzeň and Karlovy Vary regions. The largest climbing area is the granite rocks around the village of Petrohrad near Podbořany, with twelve sectors (Brána, Vyhlídková skála, Pod hradem, Rybníček, Vlčí kopec, Josemit and more), the second largest is Žihle in the northern Plzeň region with the Viklany, Bába a Dědek and Sklárna sectors. There is more climbing at Ležky, on Kozelka and Polínský vrch (Plzeň North), at Loupensko and Vlčtejn (Plzeň South), at Radyně in Plzeň, in the Rokycany, Klatovy, Tachov and Domažlice regions (the Babylon quarry), in the Karlovy Vary region with the Svatošské skály in the Ohře valley, in the Slavkov Forest, in the Brdy and on the Goethe Rocks near Aš in the westernmost tip of the country.

Trad climbing with your own cams dominates, supplemented by fixed and textile protection; sport climbing is found mainly in quarries, such as the Babylon quarry, or on the Kňafák crag in the Slavkov Forest. There are crags in both sun and shade, so climbing is possible most of the year. Some crags lie in protected areas – check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association before visiting.

Part of Czech Republic, West Bohemia has 9215 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1- to 12. Explore its 14 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Route in shadow, Traditional Climbing, Fixed belay, Route on sun.

Rules

The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas and the local regional commission's rules apply: do not alter the rock or holds, do not climb on wet rock, and follow ČHS principles for first ascents.

6+
Trojče
Wall (circle) to the summit. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay +2
5
Prumptlík
Through the middle of the valley face to the summit. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route in shadow +1
3
Prumptlík
Directly along the SW edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route in shadow +1
2
Prumptlík
Along the SE edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route in shadow +1
5
Prumptlík
Right of Efektní (Effective) in the valley face. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route in shadow +1
2
Sluneční skála
Through the crack in the corner between the middle and right pillars to the summit.
5
Sluneční skála
Through the middle of the face of the middle pillar (cr.) to the summit. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay +2
3
Sluneční skála
Along the SE edge of the right pillar to the summit.
4-
Sluneční skála
Along the SW edge of the right pillar to the summit.
2
Sluneční skála
Through the small chimney between the left and middle pillars to the summit. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route on sun +2
4
Sluneční skála
Along the SW edge of the left pillar. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route on sun +1
6
Sluneční skála
Through the middle of the face over the circle to the summit. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay +2
5
Sluneční skála
Along the SE edge of the left pillar to the summit. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route on sun +1
5+
Plzeňská věž
Valley structured face to the ledge (circle). Traverse left into the W wall and up it to… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay +3
6
Plzeňská věž
Valley face to the circle. From the circle easier also right along the edge. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay +2
6-
Plzeňská věž
From the circle on the ledge of Pohádková cesta (Fairy Tale Route) directly to the summit.
5+
Plzeňská věž
Overhanging eastern face diagonally left to the circle, directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay +2
5+
Plzeňská věž
Plateau face to the ledge, along it right to the edge and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route in shadow +2
6
Plzeňská věž
From the plateau side slightly right (sign), then from left (cr.) and from left smooth… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay +3
6
Plzeňská věž
From the circle of the Normal route to the right to the summit. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay +3
5+
Plzeňská věž
Over the overhang and Pohádková (Fairy Tale) to the summit. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay +2
5-
Stěna pod Májovou
Rocks of the Czech Republic, Czech Mountaineering Association database. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay +2
6+
Plzeňská věž
Plateau face, overhanging at the bottom, then friction climb over a bolt. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay +2
4+
Stěna pod Májovou
Through the middle of the wall below Májová. Hourglass, knot.
3
Stěna pod Májovou
Through the chimney in the left part of the wall, top out over the right edge of the… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay +3
3
Stěna pod Májovou
Through a prominent chimney with a small cave between the routes "Kunice do Žlábku" and … Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route in shadow +2
5-
Stěna pod Májovou
Along the left edge of the pillar, over 2 bolts to the terrace (sling). Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay +2
5
Stěna pod Májovou
Up the right valley wall of the left pillar (bh) directly to the pulpit. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay +2
5
Májová
To the right of the East wall, up the smooth wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Textile belay +1
6-
Májová
Up the crack into the niche and over the overhang to the ring on the left, directly up to… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay +2

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