Overview
Last updated 2024-03-26
Grade 7+/8-
Climbing season
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Difficulty
7+/8-
Rock Climbing
Climbing 'Varáha' (7+/8-) at Blážina stěna - levá část is a truly memorable experience. This route is a testament to sustained power and technical precision. From the outset, you're met with pumpy moves on relatively good but demanding holds, lulling you into a false sense of security before the real challenge begins. The middle section is where the route truly bites, demanding intricate footwork and keen finger strength on surprisingly small crimps and subtle pockets. The crux sequence often involves dynamic reaches or a finely balanced static battle, culminating in a pumpy traverse to the anchor. It's a relentless climb that pushes your limits, but the feeling of clipping the chains, having wrestled with its unique character, is immensely rewarding. A true test piece in its grade.
Rules
Nature protection: climbing allowed all year round. Nature protection documents: Decision 2019-2029, drawing, authority OP PLA Bohemian Karst
The access road along the Berounka River is closed due to the risk of falling rocks from the playground in Srbsko to Kačák.Nature protection: Climbing allowed all year round. Nature protection documents: Decision 2019-2029, appendices, authority OP PLA Bohemian Karst
- The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply.
- Do not create or chip holds or damage the rock.
- Chalk banned or tolerated depending on local rules.
- No climbing on wet rock.
The area lies in the Bohemian Karst PLA – climb only where it is permitted. At Srbsko, Šanův kout, Andělská stěna and Zrcadlo, among others, are closed. Current status in the ČHS crag database.
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