Climbing Microkamin in the Dachstein Mountains is a classic and rewarding experience for climbers comfortable with grade 5+ (UIAA). This route, often described as a short but sweet outing, offers a taste of Dachstein limestone climbing at its finest.
**The Climb:**
Microkamin, as its name suggests, features a distinct chimney (Kamin in German) section. The initial pitches typically involve face climbing on solid, well-featured limestone. The crux of the route is usually the chimney itself, requiring good technique and body positioning. Expect stemming, back and footing, and perhaps a bit of grunt work to overcome this section. The chimney is generally well-protected, but placing gear is always a good practice to supplement the existing bolts.
Above the chimney, the climb continues on more exposed face climbing, leading to the summit. The views from the top are spectacular, offering panoramic vistas of the Dachstein glacier, surrounding peaks, and the valleys below.
**Considerations:**
* **Gear:** A standard rack of quickdraws and a few cams, especially in the mid-range, are recommended. A 50-60m rope is sufficient.
* **Protection:** The route is generally well-bolted, but supplemental gear placement is possible and encouraged.
* **Experience:** This climb is best suited for climbers with experience on similar grades of limestone. Comfort with chimney climbing is essential.
* **Approach:** Research the approach to the route carefully, as the Dachstein area can be complex. Allow ample time for the approach and descent.
* **Conditions:** Dachstein weather can be unpredictable. Check the forecast before heading out, and be prepared for changing conditions. Snow and ice can linger in the higher elevations, even in summer.
**Overall, Microkamin is a fantastic climb that provides a challenging and memorable experience in the stunning Dachstein Mountains. Its accessibility and relatively short length make it a popular choice, so expect some company, especially on weekends.**