Approach the same way as the Pomlázková route. From the left base of the wall, diagonally right along grassy ledges (bushes) to the first overhang. Over the overhang, down to a ledge, which leads up to a balcony (via a chimney). Directly up the gully into the corner to the bolt (belay). From there, traverse horizontally right to the 'book' on a hollow-sounding block (piton), then further right along a receding diagonal crack, over two pitons and using cams, to the end of the crack at the 'Friends' junction with Tour Ronde (piton, ring).
