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Fliegender Holländer - Engelkarturm

Austria | Tyrol | Lechtal Alps | Engelkarturm

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Overview

Grade: 6+

Total time: 5 hrs

Climbing time: 3 hrs

Approach time: 1 hour

Exit time: 1 hour

Show topo Route topo

Length: 195m

Rope Length: 60m

Quickdraws: 13

Climbing the 'Fliegender Holländer' (Flying Dutchman) on Engelkarturm, graded 6+ according to the Saxon scale, is a quintessential experience in Elbe Sandstone climbing. Located in the majestic Saxon Switzerland, Engelkarturm is a striking sandstone pillar, home to some of the region's most iconic lines.

The 'Fliegender Holländer' perfectly embodies the unique character of Saxon climbing: bold, airy, and technically demanding. The 6+ grade here signifies not just physical prowess, but an exquisite mastery of friction climbing, precise stemming, and a strong mental game, as protection often relies on strategically placed knots and the occasional fixed ring bolt.

Each pitch offers a challenging journey upwards, with sustained sections that test your balance and commitment on the weathered sandstone. The route lives up to its 'Flying Dutchman' name, providing exhilarating exposure and a genuine sense of being suspended high above the Elbe valley.

Reaching the summit of Engelkarturm is a truly rewarding moment, offering unparalleled panoramic views of the surrounding 'rock cities' and dense forests. This isn't just a climb; it's a deep dive into a rich climbing tradition, a test of skill and nerve, and an unforgettable adventure in a truly unique natural setting.

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