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Plattenzauber - Platteinspitze

Austria | Tyrol | Lechtal Alps | Hintere Platteinspitze

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Overview

Grade: 6+

Total time: 9 hrs

Climbing time: 7 hrs

Approach time: 2 hrs

Exit time: 45 mins

Show topo Route topo

Length: 680m

Rope Length: 50m

Quickdraws: 14

Climbing 'Plattenzauber' (literally 'Slab Magic') on the Hintere Platteinspitze is a rewarding experience for any climber comfortable with 6+ (UIAA) terrain. This route is known for its sustained slab climbing, requiring good footwork, precise balance, and a cool head. The rock quality is generally excellent, offering good friction, but the relatively sparse protection demands careful route finding and confident movement.

The approach typically involves a hike with some scrambling, adding to the adventure. Once on the route, expect consistent angled slabs with delicate holds and smears. Cruxes often involve sections where finding the optimal sequence and maintaining balance is key. Properly placing and trusting gear is critical, as runouts can occur. The views from the top are stunning, providing a panoramic vista of the surrounding alpine landscape. After the climb, a careful descent, often involving rappels, is necessary. 'Plattenzauber' is a memorable climb for those seeking a challenging and beautiful slab route in a pristine alpine environment.

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