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Overview

Grade: 4

Total time: 3 hrs

Climbing time: 2 hrs

Approach time: 50 mins

Exit time: 30 mins

Show topo Route topo

Length: 125m

Rope Length: 60m

Quickdraws: 6

Climbing the 'Schusterweg' (Shoemaker's Way) on Falkenstein is a classic and highly rewarding experience in the stunning Elbe Sandstone Mountains, part of Saxon Switzerland. Graded IV according to the unique Saxon system, it offers a moderate challenge that is accessible to many climbers while still providing an authentic taste of local climbing culture.

The route is known for its diverse character, featuring a mix of cracks, chimneys, and slab sections. True to the region's traditional style, climbers rely on natural protection placements (knots in hourglasses or rock features) rather than modern metal gear, and the use of chalk is strictly prohibited, emphasizing friction and precise footwork.

Reaching the summit of Falkenstein via the Schusterweg provides incredible panoramic views of the surrounding bizarre sandstone formations and the picturesque Elbe River valley. It's a beautiful, exposed yet not overly daunting climb, perfect for those looking to immerse themselves in the rich history and unique techniques of Saxon sandstone climbing. The descent is typically by rappelling from the summit.

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