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Meletzkigrat - Großglockner

Austria | Tyrol | Glockner Group | Grossglockner

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Overview

Grade: 2

Total time: 12 hrs

Climbing time: 5 hrs

Approach time: 5 hrs

Exit time: 3 hrs

Show topo Route topo

Length: 750m

Rope Length: 50m

Quickdraws: 4

Climbing the "Meletzkigrat" on the Großglockner offers a fantastic high-alpine ridge experience that, despite its modest UIAA Grade II, delivers incredible exposure and breathtaking panoramic views. This classic route, often approached from the Stüdlhütte, provides a more engaging and less crowded alternative to the normal ascent, making it a popular choice for those seeking a true alpine adventure without extreme technical demands.

The Meletzkigrat traverses the north-east ridge, leading directly towards the Kleinglockner and eventually the main summit of the Großglockner. The climbing mostly involves easy rock scrambling and confident walking over exposed sections, occasionally requiring a handhold for balance or a short, straightforward climb. The rock quality is generally good, offering reliable holds. The true beauty of the Meletzkigrat lies in its continuous exposure and the stunning vistas it provides of the surrounding Hohe Tauern peaks, glaciers, and the majestic summit of the Großglockner itself, towering above.

Reaching the summit via the Meletzkigrat is a truly rewarding achievement, culminating in the shared joy of standing on Austria's highest peak. The descent typically follows the normal route, either back towards the Adlersruhe and then down the Koralpe side, or via the Stüdlgrat descent, depending on the overall plan. It's a memorable journey, perfect for those with some alpine experience looking for a classic ridge climb.

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