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Stüdlgrat - Großglockner

Austria | Tyrol | Glockner Group | Grossglockner

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Overview
Grade 3+
Total Time
9 hrs
Approach: 3 hrs
Climb: 5 hrs
Exit: 2 hrs
Length
500m
Rope Length
50m
Quickdraws
7
The Stüdlgrat on the Großglockner (3798m), Austria's highest peak, is an absolute classic for alpine climbers, offering an unforgettable journey across exposed rock. Graded 3+ (UIAA III+), it presents a sustained, yet never overly difficult, climb along a magnificent granite ridge. The route typically begins from the Adlersruhe hut, quickly gaining elevation and immersing climbers in the grand scale of the High Tauern.

The climbing is varied, ranging from slabs and cracks to solid blocks, often with airy exposure. Key sections like the 'Luisenpfeiler' or the 'Gratkopf' require careful movement and provide thrilling moments. Protection is generally good with some fixed anchors, but the route demands confident movement in an exposed alpine environment. The ascent is long, requiring an early start to mitigate the risks of afternoon thunderstorms and ensure ample time for the descent.

Reaching the summit via Stüdlgrat is immensely rewarding. The panoramic views from the Großglockner summit, encompassing countless peaks of the Eastern Alps, are simply breathtaking. The descent typically involves the normal route (Glocknerleitl and then to Adlersruhe), which can be steep and require crampons depending on snow conditions. Stüdlgrat is more than just a climb; it's a quintessential alpine experience, combining physical challenge with unparalleled natural beauty.

Discover Stüdlgrat - Großglockner, a climbing route rated 3+ UIAA. The total length of this route is 500 meters. Plan for a total trip time of approximately 9 hrs, with the climbing portion taking about 270 minutes. To complete this route safely, you will need 7 quickdraws. Check the latest user reviews, view the topo map below, or join the community to add your own photos for Stüdlgrat - Großglockner.

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