Overview
Grade: 6+
Total time: 2 hrs
Climbing time: 1 hour
Approach time: 20 mins
Exit time: 20 mins
Climbing 'Via Michaela' (6+) on Hoher Stein, Wachau
'Via Michaela' on Hoher Stein is a classic and highly rewarding multi-pitch sport climbing route located in the picturesque Wachau region of Austria, overlooking the Danube river. Graded 6+ (UIAA), it presents a significant but achievable challenge for experienced climbers.
The route typically ascends several pitches, offering varied climbing on good quality limestone/dolomite. The rock is generally solid, and the route is well-equipped with bolts, though a few longer runouts on easier terrain might be encountered, demanding good route-finding and a steady head. The climbing often involves a mix of steep slab, crack features, and some exposed sections, providing a thrilling experience. The crux sections are usually sustained, requiring precise footwork and good technique.
As you ascend, the views become increasingly spectacular, encompassing the meandering Danube, the vineyards of Wachau, and the historic Göttweig Abbey. The exposure is exhilarating, especially on the upper pitches, giving a true sense of adventure.
The descent is typically via rappelling down the route or an adjacent line, requiring two 50-60m ropes.
'Via Michaela' is a must-do for climbers visiting the Wachau, offering a fantastic blend of challenging climbing, stunning scenery, and a memorable day out in a unique natural setting. Remember to bring sufficient water, especially on hot days, and be prepared for potential sun exposure.