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Overview

Grade: 8

Total time: 4 hrs

Climbing time: 3 hrs

Approach time: 45 mins

Exit time: 10 mins

Show topo Route topo

Length: 260m

Rope Length: 55m

Quickdraws: 11

Climbing 'Elektrifizierte Gams' (Electrified Chamois), graded 8 (UIAA VIII), in the Wilder Kaiser Mountains, Austria, is a truly iconic and demanding experience. This route on the impressive Fleischbank wall is a benchmark for sustained, technical limestone climbing. The name itself suggests the intense, almost 'shocking' nature of the climbing, reflective of its exposed and often delicate sequences.

From the outset, navigating the 'Hohlwegen' – the hollowed-out gullies and approaches leading up to the base of the majestic Fleischbank – already hints at the ruggedness of the terrain. Once on the route, you're immediately confronted with steep, often polished and sharp rock, demanding precise footwork, strong fingers, and excellent body tension. Each pitch offers its own challenge, with the cruxes often involving intricate sequences on small crimps and pockets, sometimes overhanging sections that test your endurance to the limit.

The exposure grows with every meter gained, offering breathtaking views of the surrounding Kaiser range, but demanding unwavering focus on the task at hand. It's a climb that requires not just physical prowess but significant mental fortitude to commit to the moves, manage runouts (if present), and embrace the alpine environment. Successfully topping out or completing the key pitches leaves an immense sense of accomplishment, having tackled one of the Kaiser's classic test pieces. The descent, often involving multiple rappels, provides a final, reflective look at the magnificent, challenging face you've just conquered.

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