Overview
Last updated 2024-05-11
Climbing season
Restrictions in 5 month(s)
- Open
- Restricted
- Unknown
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L. Vodháňel - J. Janků (1954): We ascend via a short northern crack, as in the normal route, to a small ledge. Further via the "sokolík" and directly up the wall, then higher we turn somewhat to the right to the 1st ring. From the ring, we traverse horizontally to the right with extreme difficulty, still under the overhang, to a small crack, where we descend a bit lower. We continue a few more steps to the right and ascend the wall to reach the 2nd ring. We then proceed up the wall to an oblique ledge, along which we climb up to the right to the enormous hourglasses. Now, pushing off via a shallow chimney crack upwards (also possible to climb the wall to the right of the hourglasses) to the 3rd ring (which is also the last ring of Jeschke's route). From here, the summit is reached as via Jeschke's route.
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Rules
Nature conservation: Climbing seasonally prohibited from November 1st to March 31st. Nature conservation documents: Decision 2022-2026, Decision 2022-2026_Maps authority Nature Conservation Administration Protected Landscape Area Bohemian Paradise
Climbing conditions in the Český Ráj PLA: - use public or marked paths to access the rocks and do not damage the vegetation cover - use only fixed protection and textile belay devices. - keep quiet, do not climb on wet or damp sandstone, do not disturb nesting birds - report bird nesting, wear shoes with smooth soles, or climb barefoot - do not damage or change the surface of the rocks (rope abrasion, chopping), do not remove plants and vegetation - always climb routes from below, the number of climbers in the team max. 5, do not use Top Rope - magnesium and other chemical agents are prohibited, rappel only on permanent rappel anchors - show your climbing license upon request - first ascent regime - see map polygons.Nature conservation: Climbing seasonally prohibited from November 1st to March 31st, exceptions apply to specific rocks. Nature Conservation Documents: Decision 2022-2026, Decision 2022-2026_Maps of the Nature Conservation Authority of the Český Ráj Protected Landscape Area
- Chalk is banned.
- No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
- Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
- Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
- Abseil only from fixed anchors.
- Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
- Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
- First ascents usually need prior approval.
On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.
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