From E via the wall diagonally left to the 1st ring. From the left over the overhang and via the SE wall to the large hourglasses. Right to a shallow crack and through it to the 2nd ring (also directly from the hourglasses). Horizontally left to the 3rd ring. In the slabs, traverse left across the entire valley wall to the 4th ring. Left into a shallow gully and through it to the balcony on the NW face. Short wall to the summit.
L. Vodháňel - J. Janků (1954): The ascent starts at the eastern corner from the plateau side, traversing the wall diagonally left, along a vertical crack to a ledge, above which is the 1st ring. From the ring, we climb directly up under an overhang to a wider ledge, along which we cross about 4 steps to the left behind the edge to a fragile slab. From there, we ascend slightly right through a shallow gully into the large hourglasses (belay). From the hourglasses, an difficult traverse to the right leads to a narrow vertical crack, and along it, we climb up to the second ring on its right side. About three meters to the left from it is the third ring. From the ring, we descend a bit lower and, using sharp, sometimes fragile holds, we continuously traverse left across the entire south face horizontally all the way to the western edge, where a bit higher up we enter a shallow groove, through which we continue with a spread move to the balcony below the summit and further up the wall to the summit.
Rules
Nature conservation: Climbing seasonally prohibited from November 1st to March 31st. Nature conservation documents: Decision 2022-2026, Decision 2022-2026_Maps authority Nature Conservation Administration Protected Landscape Area Bohemian Paradise
Climbing conditions in the Český Ráj PLA:
- use public or marked paths to access the rocks and do not damage the vegetation cover
- use only fixed protection and textile belay devices.
- keep quiet, do not climb on wet or damp sandstone, do not disturb nesting birds
- report bird nesting, wear shoes with smooth soles, or climb barefoot
- do not damage or change the surface of the rocks (rope abrasion, chopping), do not remove plants and vegetation
- always climb routes from below, the number of climbers in the team max. 5, do not use Top Rope
- magnesium and other chemical agents are prohibited, rappel only on permanent rappel anchors
- show your climbing license upon request
- first ascent regime - see map polygons.
Nature conservation: Climbing seasonally prohibited from November 1st to March 31st, exceptions apply to specific rocks. Nature Conservation Documents: Decision 2022-2026, Decision 2022-2026_Maps of the Nature Conservation Authority of the Český Ráj Protected Landscape Area