In the plateau wall via a chimney-like formation to the end and diagonally left to a prominent hollow in the center of the wall (1st ring). Along the ledge to the left (2nd ring) and up the wall to the 3rd ring. Up to the hourglasses and along the ledge left to the hole with large hourglasses (4th ring - added subsequently). Left into a shallow hollow and via a receding wall to the balcony. Through the corner to the summit.
L. Vodháňel - J. Janků (1954): The ascent starts in the right part of the north face with a difficult crack to a small ledge (belay loop). Further along the crack, we proceed via a "sokolík" (chimney-like formation) to an oblique ledge, along which we move a few steps to the left. Then slightly diagonally up to the right and along an open corner up a rather smooth wall to the 1st ring. From there, we descend slightly lower and cross a narrow footbridge to the left edge to the 2nd ring. We then climb directly up to a triangular hold, where we slightly turn left. A little higher up, we return to the original direction and continue along the right edge of the "belly" (good holds behind the edge) to the 3rd ring. From the ring, we cross left onto an overhanging rock block and along a shallow vertical groove, we climb directly to the "small hourglasses". From these hourglasses, along a horizontal ledge to the left, we reach the "large hourglasses", where we can safely belay the second climber. From there, we continue about three steps to the left and up a smooth wall until below an overhanging small wall, which we already bypass slightly to the right onto the sub-summit balcony. From the balcony, along the crack on its right side, we complete this rewarding ascent.
Rules
Nature conservation: Climbing seasonally prohibited from November 1st to March 31st. Nature conservation documents: Decision 2022-2026, Decision 2022-2026_Maps authority Nature Conservation Administration Protected Landscape Area Bohemian Paradise
Climbing conditions in the Český Ráj PLA:
- use public or marked paths to access the rocks and do not damage the vegetation cover
- use only fixed protection and textile belay devices.
- keep quiet, do not climb on wet or damp sandstone, do not disturb nesting birds
- report bird nesting, wear shoes with smooth soles, or climb barefoot
- do not damage or change the surface of the rocks (rope abrasion, chopping), do not remove plants and vegetation
- always climb routes from below, the number of climbers in the team max. 5, do not use Top Rope
- magnesium and other chemical agents are prohibited, rappel only on permanent rappel anchors
- show your climbing license upon request
- first ascent regime - see map polygons.
Nature conservation: Climbing seasonally prohibited from November 1st to March 31st, exceptions apply to specific rocks. Nature Conservation Documents: Decision 2022-2026, Decision 2022-2026_Maps of the Nature Conservation Authority of the Český Ráj Protected Landscape Area