Overview
Grade: 6+
Total time: 3 hrs
Climbing time: 2 hrs
Approach time: 30 mins
Exit time: 15 mins
The "Dioniso" is a distinguished multi-pitch climbing route situated on the Parete di San Paolo in Arco, Italy. This route is celebrated for its technical challenges and scenic beauty, making it a favored choice among climbers visiting the region.
Route Overview:
Difficulty: The route is rated 6a (UIAA), indicating a moderate level of difficulty suitable for climbers with intermediate experience.
Length: Approximately 110 meters of climbing, typically divided into multiple pitches.
Climbing Duration: Generally completed in around 2 hours, depending on the climber's experience and conditions.
Approach: The approach involves a 30-minute hike from the parking area to the base of the route.
Route Characteristics:
"Dioniso" features compact grey walls with technical climbing, characteristic of the San Paolo area.
Equipment and Safety:
Climbers should be equipped with standard multi-pitch climbing gear, including:
Helmet and Harness: Essential for safety.
50-meter Single Rope: Suitable for the route's length.
Quickdraws: For the bolted sections.
Personal Protective Equipment: Such as gloves and appropriate footwear.
The route is well-protected with bolts, but climbers should be prepared for variable weather conditions and have experience with alpine climbing.
Descent:
After completing the climb, descend via the established descent routes, which typically involve a 15-minute hike back to the starting point.
Additional Information:
The Parete di San Paolo area offers several climbing routes suitable for various skill levels. For those interested in exploring more, the "Argo" route is another popular climb in the area.
Climbing "Dioniso" (6+) on Arco San Paolo, located on Monte Colt - San Paolo Nord, is a rewarding experience. This route, named after the Greek god of wine and revelry, offers a challenging and engaging ascent. Expect technical moves, stemming, and thoughtful sequences throughout. The rock quality is generally good, but always pay attention for loose holds, especially after weather. The exposure increases as you progress, providing stunning views of the surrounding landscape. Proper gear placement and secure belaying are crucial for a safe and enjoyable climb. Be prepared for a demanding pitch, both physically and mentally, that ultimately culminates in a satisfying summit on the iconic Arco San Paolo.