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Pfaffenstein - Direkter Westgrat

Austria | Styria | Hochschwab Group | Pfaffenstein Westgipfel

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Overview

Grade: 3

Total time: 6 hrs

Climbing time: 2 hrs

Approach time: 2 hrs

Exit time: 2 hrs

Show topo Route topo

Length: 300m

Rope Length: 50m

Quickdraws: 5

## Climbing "Pfaffenstein - Direkter Westgrat" (Grade III) on Pfaffenstein Westgipfel

The Pfaffenstein, an iconic table mountain in Saxon Switzerland, offers a multitude of climbing routes. Among them, the 'Direkter Westgrat' (Direct West Ridge) on the Pfaffenstein Westgipfel stands out as a beloved classic, graded a moderate III (Saxon Scale).

### The Ascent
The route typically begins with easy scrambling and climbing up the initial sections of the west face. As you ascend, the terrain becomes more defined, transitioning into a pronounced ridge. The climbing, rated Grade III, involves mostly straightforward moves with good holds, but often on friction-dependent sandstone. While not technically demanding, there are exposed sections where sure-footedness is key. Protection is typically placed using slings around hourglasses or rock formations, adhering to the traditional Saxon climbing rules (no metal protection).

### The Summit
Reaching the summit plateau of the Westgipfel rewards climbers with breathtaking panoramic views over the Elbe Sandstone Mountains, including landmarks like Königstein Fortress and Lilienstein. A summit book often awaits inscription, marking your achievement.

### The Descent
The most common descent method is a rappel from the summit or a designated rappel station. Depending on the exact exit, this can be a single long rappel or a series of shorter ones, bringing you back to the base of the mountain or a nearby trail.

### Overall Impression
The 'Direkter Westgrat' is an excellent introductory route for those new to Saxon sandstone climbing, offering a taste of exposure and traditional techniques without excessive difficulty. For experienced climbers, it's a pleasant, scenic, and quick classic.

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