Start to the left of the narrow crack (W wall). Traverse right along the overhang to a small balcony (2 knots). From there, difficult along the gully to a piton. From the piton, somewhat to the right up the wall and about 1 m below the overhang, to the right to the hourglass (knot/thread-through) just below the overhang. From the hourglass, hand traverse under the overhang to the right to a large balcony (knots), below the balcony where it ends (hourglass), over a difficult overhang into a crack and through it and chimney style to the summit (knots along the way). (first ascent with 1 piton, today 5 added bolts + 2 pitons)
note: The key section of the route (overhang) was solved by Ivo Novotný, but he did not participate in the final ascent.
Rules
Nature protection: climbing allowed year-round. Nature Protection Documents: Decision 2019-2029, drawing, OP CHKO Český kras authority.
The access road along the Berounka River is closed due to the risk of falling rocks from the playground in Srbsko to Kačák.
Nature protection: Climbing allowed all year round. Nature protection documents: Decision 2019-2029, appendices, authority OP PLA Bohemian Karst