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Overview

Grade: 4+

Total time: 3 hrs

Climbing time: 2 hrs

Approach time: 20 mins

Exit time: 1 hour

Show topo Route topo

Length: 250m

Rope Length: 50m

Quickdraws: 8

Climbing the "Ostwand Verschneidung" (East Face Dihedral) on the Salzburger Hochthron, rated 4+ UIAA, is a classic alpine rock climbing experience. This route offers a captivating journey up the impressive east face, characterized by sustained yet enjoyable climbing through a prominent corner system.

The grade 4+ signifies a demanding but achievable challenge for experienced alpine climbers. It requires solid rope management, comfort with exposure, and efficient movement over varied terrain, from slabby sections to more vertical climbing within the dihedral. The rock quality is generally good, providing reliable holds and opportunities for natural protection.

An ascent of the Ostwand Verschneidung is a full alpine undertaking. The approach itself can be significant, often starting early in the morning to ensure ample time for the climb and descent. As you ascend, the views gradually expand, culminating in breathtaking panoramas of the surrounding Berchtesgaden Alps and the Salzburger Land from the summit of Hochthron. The exposure on the face adds to the thrill, making you feel truly immersed in the mountain environment.

Descent typically involves a combination of scrambling and sometimes abseiling, requiring careful navigation and continued focus. This route is highly rewarding for those seeking a true alpine adventure, combining technical climbing with stunning scenery and the satisfaction of reaching a prominent summit. Proper gear, a keen awareness of weather conditions, and prior alpine experience are crucial for a safe and successful ascent.

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