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Fedele-Dibona- Pordoispitze

Italy | Trentino-South Tyrol | Dolomites | Sass Pordoi

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Overview

Grade: 5-/5

Total time: 8 hrs

Climbing time: 6 hrs

Approach time: 2 hrs

Exit time: 30 mins

Show topo Route topo

Length: 1,000m

Rope Length: 50m

Quickdraws: 10

The 'Fedele-Dibona' route on the majestic Sass Pordoi, part of the Sella Group in the heart of the Dolomites, stands as a true alpine classic. Graded at 5-/5 (UIAA), it's a testament to traditional climbing, offering a sustained yet never excessively difficult journey up the impressive southwest face of the Pordoispitze.

First ascended by Fedele and Dibona, the route follows an elegant line, traversing slabs, chimneys, and exposed ridges. Climbers are treated to breathtaking panoramic views of the surrounding Dolomite peaks, especially the Marmolada. While not extreme in difficulty by modern standards, its alpine character – long pitches, potential for loose rock in places, and significant exposure – demands solid experience in multi-pitch climbing, good route-finding skills, and a strong head for heights.

The climb culminates on the summit of Pordoispitze, offering a tremendous sense of accomplishment. The descent often involves a mix of downclimbing and abseiling, or utilizing the nearby Pordoi cable car, making it accessible.

This route is more than just a sequence of moves; it's a journey through climbing history, an immersive experience in the grandeur of the Dolomites, and a highly rewarding endeavor for climbers seeking a moderate but memorable alpine adventure.

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