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Vlk v rouše berančím, Šaunštejn (Loupežnický hrad) 8+/9-

Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones, 9. Bohemian Switzerland NP, Vysoká Lípa, Šaunštejn (Loupežnický hrad)

8+/9-

Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay

Last updated 2024-03-26

Grade 8+/9-

Climbing season

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No logs or topo yet — add what you know so the next climber has an easier start.

Difficulty
8+/9-
Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
Location

50.86878, 14.35231

To the right of the "Goat's Corner" route, along the edge and a small corner to the 1st bolt, from the right to the 2nd bolt. Up the wall over the 3rd and 4th bolts to the edge and along it to the 5th bolt. Left behind the edge, traverse into the chimney and up it to the top.
Rules

Nature protection: Climbing on this rock is allowed year-round. Nature Protection Document: NPČŠ_OOP_horolezectví 2020 and a list of permitted objects, Nature Protection authority: National Park Administration of Czech Switzerland

Inside the national park you may climb only on permitted rocks.

The park administration announces seasonal access bans each year for sites with nesting birds. Some towers are closed permanently (the "Jetřichovice – zakázané" sector). Check the ČHS crag database and the park administration's website before every visit.

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

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