Overview
Grade: 4
Total time: 7 hrs
Climbing time: 2 hrs
Approach time: 3 hrs
Exit time: 3 hrs
Show topo 
Length: 175m
Rope Length: 50m
Quickdraws: 8
Climbing the 'Schärtenspitze Nordostwand Brandstein' (UIAA IV) on Schärtenspitze is a classic moderate alpine experience in the Wetterstein Mountains. This route, graded UIAA IV, offers engaging and varied climbing through the impressive Northeast Face. Climbers can expect a mix of steep pitches, exposed traverses, and sections requiring careful route-finding, all on the generally good quality limestone typical for the area. While not extremely difficult, the route demands solid alpine climbing skills, a good head for heights, and competence in managing exposure. The climbing is consistently interesting, with never-ending sustained pitches at the hardest grade, making it enjoyable for those comfortable with the UIAA IV standard. Throughout the ascent, the views of the surrounding Wetterstein range and beyond are simply breathtaking, culminating in a spectacular panorama from the summit. The descent typically involves a combination of scrambling and potentially some rappels, leading back down to the valley or a hut. This route is a rewarding objective for climbers seeking a memorable day in a stunning high-alpine environment, offering a true taste of traditional alpine adventure.