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Schärtenspitze Nordostwand Brandstein

Austria | Salzburg | Berchtesgaden Alps | Schärtenspitze

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Overview

Grade: 4

Total time: 7 hrs

Climbing time: 2 hrs

Approach time: 3 hrs

Exit time: 3 hrs

Show topo Route topo

Length: 175m

Rope Length: 50m

Quickdraws: 8

Climbing the 'Schärtenspitze Nordostwand Brandstein' (UIAA IV) on Schärtenspitze is a classic moderate alpine experience in the Wetterstein Mountains. This route, graded UIAA IV, offers engaging and varied climbing through the impressive Northeast Face. Climbers can expect a mix of steep pitches, exposed traverses, and sections requiring careful route-finding, all on the generally good quality limestone typical for the area. While not extremely difficult, the route demands solid alpine climbing skills, a good head for heights, and competence in managing exposure. The climbing is consistently interesting, with never-ending sustained pitches at the hardest grade, making it enjoyable for those comfortable with the UIAA IV standard. Throughout the ascent, the views of the surrounding Wetterstein range and beyond are simply breathtaking, culminating in a spectacular panorama from the summit. The descent typically involves a combination of scrambling and potentially some rappels, leading back down to the valley or a hut. This route is a rewarding objective for climbers seeking a memorable day in a stunning high-alpine environment, offering a true taste of traditional alpine adventure.

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