Overview
Grade: 7
Total time: 7 hrs
Climbing time: 3 hrs
Approach time: 2 hrs
Exit time: 2 hrs
Show topo 
Length: 180m
Rope Length: 50m
Quickdraws: 10
The 'Direkte Westkante' (Direct West Ridge/Edge) on the Schartenspitze's Northwest face is a classic and highly demanding alpine climbing route, graded VII (UIAA). Known for its sustained difficulties, the route ascends the prominent west edge directly, offering continuous, technical climbing on excellent limestone. Climbers can expect a mix of steep cracks, exposed slabs, and challenging overhangs or bulges that truly test skill and endurance. This is a serious alpine undertaking, suitable only for experienced lead climbers comfortable with the grade in a multi-pitch, exposed environment. Good route-finding skills, efficient rope management, and a strong head for heights are essential. The position on the edge provides breathtaking exposure and panoramic views of the surrounding alpine landscape. While the rock quality is generally good, the alpine environment always demands caution regarding weather changes and potential loose rock in less-traveled sections. Conquering the 'Direkte Westkante' is a significant achievement, offering an unforgettable high-alpine climbing experience.
