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Schattenwitz - Schartenspitze

Austria | Styria | Hochschwab Group | Schartenspitze NW

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Overview

Grade: 9

Total time: 9 hrs

Climbing time: 5 hrs

Approach time: 2 hrs

Exit time: 2 hrs

Show topo Route topo

Length: 205m

Rope Length: 50m

Quickdraws: 10

Climbing "Schattenwitz" on the Schartenspitze NW face is an formidable high-alpine undertaking, graded UIAA IX (or 9). This multi-pitch route ascends the north-western flank of the Schartenspitze, a name that evokes a sharp, prominent peak, suggesting a challenging and exposed environment. The grade 9 rating signifies an extremely demanding ascent, placing it firmly in the realm of elite climbing, reserved for highly experienced and technically proficient climbers. Expect sustained sections of steep, often overhanging rock, requiring powerful, precise, and often intricate moves. The route likely navigates through complex features, potentially involving delicate slabs, strenuous cracks, exposed traverses, or thin face climbing. Ascending a NW face suggests a committing experience, often with less direct sunlight, which can make the rock colder and the conditions more serious, demanding efficient climbing. Success on "Schattenwitz" demands not only exceptional physical strength, endurance, and advanced lead climbing skills but also meticulous route-finding, excellent protection placement, and profound mental fortitude to manage the significant exposure and the inherent risks of such an alpine endeavor. The reward, however, is an unforgettable climbing experience, breathtaking panoramic views from a prominent summit, and the deep satisfaction of conquering one of the region's true test pieces.

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