Skip to content
You are offline — showing a saved version of this page.
A new version is available.
< Back to List

Západní spára, Stará pekárna 5+

Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones, 3. Tisá, Modřín, Stará pekárna

5+

Rock Climbing

Last updated 2024-03-26

Grade 5+

Climbing season

Restrictions in 5 month(s)

  • Open
  • Restricted
  • Unknown
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec
Community

Help improve this page

No logs or topo yet — add what you know so the next climber has an easier start.

Difficulty
5+
Rock Climbing
Location

50.77806, 14.06928

From the wall and crack (K the same as the Panasonic route) and left up the wall n. v.

Discover Západní spára, a climbing route rated 5+. Check the latest user reviews, view the topo map below, or join the community to add your own photos for Západní spára.

Rules

Nature protection: Tower and surroundings closed from February 23 to June 30 due to peregrine falcon nesting.

OVK: Magnesium is limited according to sandstone rules, first ascents only with the consent of the administrator.

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Weather forecast
Loading Weather...

Current conditions

No condition reports in the last 30 days.

No logs yet — add what you know so the next climber has an easier start.

Reviews 0
Have you climbed here?
0 people bookmarked this place
Share this route

Send it to the person you want to climb it with.

WhatsApp Facebook

Nobody to climb with?

Similar routes nearby (around grade 5+)
5+
Karkulka
LEFT up the valley-side wall to a ledge, up the wall to the right of the SW edge and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5+
Rajská věž
To the right of the NE edge, up the wall under the overhang, to the left behind the edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Karkulka
From the right through a small chimney around the small pillars onto a ramp. Via a crack,… Rock Climbing
5+
Karkulka
Up the middle of the valley-side wall to a ledge. From there to the right through a small… Rock Climbing
5+
Rajská věž
To the right of the N edge, up the cracks to the ledge and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Rajská věž
Start about 5 m to the right of the Stará Údolní route, up the overhanging crack and… Rock Climbing
Other climbing routes in Stará pekárna
6+/7-
Stará pekárna
Between the "Světlozor" and "Most" routes. Up the face past 5bh to the rappel bh. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
8-/8
Stará pekárna
From the 3rd BH directly to the 4th BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
6+/7-
Stará pekárna
Up the right corner crack to the K. Up the crack to the end and to the right up the face… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Stará pekárna
Via the "Kuku Variant" to the ring. Then directly up the face past 2 rings, higher up to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8-/8
Stará pekárna
Via "Cigánův odkaz" (Gypsy's Legacy) up to above the 3rd ring. Then diagonally left along… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
6-
Stará pekárna
Through the crack in the middle of the downhill wall (K) n. v. Rock Climbing
6-
Stará pekárna
To the left of the Světozor route's corner, via cracks and the wall to K. Traverse left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Stará pekárna
From the block on the left, up the wall to the right onto a sloping ramp, directly up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Stará pekárna
Above the 2nd K, from the ledge directly along the crack n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
8-/8
Stará pekárna
From the 1st K of the “Zlaťák” route, up the wall via 4 bolts to the rappel ring. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay