Part of Modřín, Stará pekárna has 16 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 4- to 8/8+. Routes are listed below with grade, style, and community notes.
Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Textile belay.
Rules
Nature protection: Tower and surroundings closed from February 23 to June 30 due to peregrine falcon nesting.
OVK: Magnesium is limited according to sandstone rules, first ascents only with the consent of the administrator.The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.
- Chalk is banned.
- No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
- Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
- Do not alter the rock surface.
- Abseil from the summit rings.
Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.
7/7+
Cigánův Odkaz
Via the "Kuku Variant" to the ring. Then directly up the face past 2 rings, higher up to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Sony
Left, up the West wall (1st K), through the crack (2nd K) and directly up the wall n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
6
Panasonic cup
Up the wall to the left of the SW edge under the overhang, right around the edge and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Zlaťák - přímá var
Above the 2nd K, from the ledge directly along the crack n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
8-/8
Chyt do sáčku na mouku
From the 1st K of the “Zlaťák” route, up the wall via 4 bolts to the rappel ring. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
8/8+
Už jen chvilku chránit svět
Via the SE edge (2bh), corner (2bh), crack and edge (2bh) to the rappel ring. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5+
Západní spára
From the wall and crack (K the same as the Panasonic route) and left up the wall n. v. Rock Climbing
6-
Zlaťák
From the block on the left, up the wall to the right onto a sloping ramp, directly up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8/8+
Dolce vita
From the block in the downhill wall, left via 6 bolts to the rappel ring. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
6+/7-
Vynucená cesta
Between the "Světlozor" and "Most" routes. Up the face past 5bh to the rappel bh. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
6-
Stažená roleta - var. Ku-ku
To the left of the Světozor route's corner, via cracks and the wall to K. Traverse left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8-/8
Varianta Narovnání
From the 3rd BH directly to the 4th BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
6+/7-
Světozor
Up the right corner crack to the K. Up the crack to the end and to the right up the face… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8-/8
Varianta - Čokorolka
Via "Cigánův odkaz" (Gypsy's Legacy) up to above the 3rd ring. Then diagonally left along… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1