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Aktenzeichen XY - Trogkofel Südwandpfeiler

Austria | Carinthia | Carnic main ridge | Trogkofel/Creta di Aip

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Overview

Grade: 7+

Total time: 4 hrs

Climbing time: 2 hrs

Approach time: 1 hour

Exit time: 1 hour

Show topo Route topo

Length: 110m

Rope Length: 60m

Quickdraws: 10

Climbing the "Aktenzeichen XY - Trogkofel Südwandpfeiler" (grade 7+) on the Trogkofel/Creta di Aip is a serious and committing alpine undertaking. This route, named after a German true-crime television show, is known for its demanding climbing, sustained difficulty, and exposed positions. The route follows a prominent pillar on the south face of the Trogkofel, offering incredible views of the surrounding Carnic Alps.

Typically, the climb involves multiple pitches of challenging rock climbing, requiring solid 7th-grade proficiency and considerable experience in alpine environments. Protection is often sparse and may require placing gear (nuts and cams) strategically. Route finding can also be challenging, especially in the upper sections. Climbers should be comfortable with long runouts and the possibility of encountering less-than-perfect rock quality in places.

Approaching the base of the route involves a hike, often including some scree or scrambling. Descending from the summit typically involves rappelling, and sometimes a combination of rappelling and downclimbing. A thorough understanding of alpine techniques, including anchor building, rope management, and emergency procedures, is essential for a safe ascent of the "Aktenzeichen XY" route. Success on this route is a testament to a climber's skill, experience, and mental fortitude.
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