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Simon 2000 - Obere Diesbachwand

Austria | Salzburg | Berchtesgaden Alps | Upper Diesbachwand

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Overview

Grade: 7-

Total time: 6 hrs

Climbing time: 3 hrs

Approach time: 2 hrs

Exit time: 2 hrs

Show topo Route topo

Length: 185m

Rope Length: 60m

Quickdraws: 12

Climbing 'Simon 2000' (Grade 7-) on the Obere Diesbachwand (Upper Diesbachwand) in the Grimsel Pass region, Switzerland, is a quintessential high-alpine multi-pitch experience. This classic route, established around the turn of the millennium, is renowned for its superb quality and diverse climbing on excellent Grimsel granite.

**Route Characteristics:**
* **Grade:** 7- (UIAA scale). This indicates a challenging but accessible route for experienced climbers, requiring good technique, strength, and composure.
* **Rock Type:** Predominantly high-friction granite, characteristic of the Grimsel area. The rock is generally solid and offers fantastic climbing.
* **Pitches:** Typically 5 to 7 pitches long, varying depending on linking possibilities. Each pitch offers unique challenges.
* **Climbing Style:** 'Simon 2000' offers a varied climbing style, including technical slabs requiring precise footwork, enjoyable cracks that demand good jamming and stemming skills, and steeper, more strenuous sections. The cruxes often involve delicate slab climbing or sustained crack systems.
* **Protection:** The route is often described as 'alpine sport climbing' or 'partially bolted.' Belays are generally well-equipped with bolts, and some bolts are present in the pitches, especially on slabs. However, a full rack of cams and nuts is essential for supplementary protection in the abundant cracks.
* **Exposure & Ambiance:** The Obere Diesbachwand is an impressive granite face, providing an airy and exposed climbing experience with breathtaking panoramic views of the high-alpine landscape and surrounding glaciers. It truly feels like a remote, adventurous undertaking.
* **Descent:** The most common descent method is rappelling down the route, which requires careful management of ropes and good communication within the climbing party.

**Overall:** 'Simon 2000' is a highly recommended route for climbers seeking a rewarding high-alpine adventure. It combines the security of modern bolting at belays with the traditional demands of placing gear in pitches, making it a complete test piece for those comfortable with the UIAA 7- grade in an alpine environment. Good weather conditions and solid alpine experience are crucial for a successful and enjoyable ascent.

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